How to insulate brick walls from the outside. How to insulate the walls of a brick house with your own hands

The most common building material that is widely used for the construction of houses and other structures is brick, as it has a number of positive qualities. However, this material also has one significant drawback - without good thermal insulation, it practically does not retain heat.

In the event that the house is bought ready-made, but it has single-layer walls no more than 60 cm thick, then you should definitely start insulating them. This can be done outside or inside the home.

The technology is much simpler and in the end it turns out to be more reliable than the internal one. In addition, it will never entail a greenhouse effect in the room, and it also does not take up additional centimeters of area, which, given the small dimensions of the whole house, are worth their weight in gold.

Let us consider in what cases people resort to the help of internal insulation, which, in spite of some disadvantages (a more laborious and complex process), still enjoys a certain popularity. First of all, it is necessary to insulate the walls inside the premises in the case when it comes to an ancient building, the architectural appearance of which is prohibited from violating according to certain rules and regulations. In addition, we can talk about an apartment located in a very old building, and in this case, external insulation alone will give almost no result.

It is somewhat cheaper to carry out internal insulation of brick walls in a house than to do the same external work. In addition, in this case, all the work can be done without the involvement of specialists. The main thing is to first decide on the method of insulation, and also choose the material suitable for it.

A brick wall inside the house can be insulated with polystyrene foam, which is very popular with consumers, since it is a fairly cheap and at the same time very reliable material that makes the room really warm. The only downside to Styrofoam is that it is flammable or self-sustaining.

It is very easy to carry out all work with foam. First of all, you need to prepare the surface of the walls. They should be plastered, primed (to avoid the formation of fungal infections) and putty to create the most even surface. After that, the surface of the wall is re-primed and after the primer has completely dried, the foam itself is attached with glue. In this case, the sheets of foam must be stacked very tightly to each other. Next, you need to plaster the surface of the wall using a reinforcing mesh to avoid cracking the plaster and accidental damage to the wall in the form of dents. You need to finish the work with finishing. Anyone can be used finishing material: painting, wallpaper, tiles, etc.

Another suitable material for wall insulation is mineral wool. The technology of working with it practically does not differ from actions with foam. However, here instead of plaster applied under the foam, you need to use a crate, which is arranged from vertical or horizontal wooden slats.

At the same time, you need to remember that when installing the slats, the distance between them should be slightly less (by 2 cm) than the width of the mineral wool sheet. This is done so that the material is mounted in a spacer and there are no gaps between the crate and the mineral wool.

Having mounted the crate, you can safely proceed to the placement of the insulation. After that, a vapor barrier is attached to the wall, which is sheathed from the outside with clapboard or drywall. With internal insulation with mineral wool, a vapor barrier device will be mandatory so that later the wool is not saturated with moisture and does not lose its thermal insulation properties.

One of the longest, dirtiest, but cheapest ways to insulate walls is to plaster them. To begin with, a mounting mesh is attached to the wall, which is subsequently covered with several layers of plaster. The first layer (0.5-1 cm) fills the distance between the bricks, the second (2-3 cm) is applied to the entire wall in several stages so as not to fall off under its own weight. The final layer of warm plaster (up to 5 mm) evens out the walls well.

Cork panels can also be used as insulation for walls.

How to properly insulate brick house from the inside? We will formulate the basic principles of brick wall insulation and try to select the optimal materials for thermal insulation work.

A bit of theory

To understand how to properly insulate brick wall from the inside, let's start with a small lyrical digression.

Builders, on the basis of vast experience of work (including thermal insulation), have long formulated two principles that must be followed when choosing wall materials and schemes for their insulation.

Vapor permeability

In the case of a dwelling, it should increase from the inside of the wall outward. Why? The fact is that in a residential building in the cold season, the humidity is noticeably higher than on the street.

There are two reasons for this:

1. In the process of life, the inhabitants of the house inevitably saturate the air in it with water vapor. Breathing, cooking, damp cleaning, dish washing, and laundry all lead to humidification. At the same time, air exchange is limited by ventilation capabilities: the windows are closed in winter.
2. Let's remember physics. Warm air can hold more moisture than cold air. It is the precipitation of excess moisture in the form of condensation during air cooling that leads to sweating of the windows and dampness in the corners of the outer walls.

Along with ventilation, water vapor continuously leaves the house directly through the wall material. In the case when the outer layers of the wall have a higher vapor permeability, steam does not stay in the wall; but if the outer layers create a barrier, the wall begins to damp.

The vapor permeability of bricks is one of the lowest among building materials. Any inner finish or insulation layer should be even less permeable to moisture.

Insulation location

Ideally, walls should be insulated from the outside. What is the instruction related to?

With the location of the point where steam begins to condense as it cools.

• In the case of a non-insulated wall, the dew point is located directly in the thickness brickwork. Building bricks will damp and rapidly disintegrate.

In the photo there is a double silicate brick M 150. The material from which it is made is afraid of high humidity and is not intended for high mechanical loads.

• If the wall is insulated from the inside, the point with the temperature at which the steam condenses (the so-called dew point) will be on the inside of the brick wall, behind the insulation. The price of this is dampness, mold and puddles of condensation on the floor.
• And only with external insulation with a vapor-permeable material, the entire capital wall will be warmed up; in this case, the steam will freely pass through its thickness, without causing excessive moisture.

Meanwhile in the real world

Unfortunately, not everywhere and not always everything can be done in accordance with the theory. In some cases, external insulation is impossible.

There are many reasons.

• The house is an architectural monument. Its facade should retain its original appearance.
• This is the top floor of a brick multi-storey buildingand you do not have a tower of sufficient height at your disposal.
• There is too little space separating the wall above from the neighboring house, from which it is simply impossible to carry out thermal insulation work.

Be that as it may, we are dealing with the fact: it is impossible to insulate outside. How to insulate walls in a brick house from the inside?

Let's call on common sense to help. The main problem that we will face in the case of internal thermal insulation is the condensation of water vapor in those places where it is highly undesirable, and its consequences. The obvious conclusion is that we just need to hermetically cut the wall (and taking into account the vapor permeability of the insulation - and it too) from the room.

There are two ways.

1. When choosing how to insulate a brick wall from the inside, we may prefer an insulating material with extremely low vapor permeability. Among the popular insulation materials, two of these are recalled offhand: penofol (foil insulation based on expanded polyethylene) and extruded polystyrene foam with a compacted surface on one side.

Please note: the foil side of the penofol and the denser surface of the expanded polystyrene insulation should face towards the warm room. In this case, we will avoid the saturation of the insulation with steam.

1. Insulation with arbitrary vapor permeability can be protected from the side of the room with a vapor-impermeable film. In this case, the vapor barrier will have to be given just paranoid attention: not a single gap for moisture should remain. The strips of the protective film are attached with an overlap, the seams are glued.

Possible solutions

Let's look at a couple of practical answers to the question of how to insulate a brick wall from the inside with your own hands.

Extruded polystyrene foam

This material has a high density. With a thickness of 20-40 millimeters, it can be glued directly to the walls. The surface facing the interior of the room can then be covered with wallpaper or covered with structural plaster.

Nuance: if you are deciding how to insulate a brick bath from the inside, it is better to forget about polymer insulation. At 80-100C, they decompose with the release of harmful substances.

How to insulate a brick house from the inside using EPS?

• The walls are leveled and primed with antiseptic primer. It will serve as insurance against the appearance of the fungus.
• For fixing the material, use ordinary tile adhesive or special cementitious foam adhesive. The material will not interfere with pre-rolling with a needle roller: the adhesion to the glue will slightly improve.

The glue is applied to the entire surface of the expanded polystyrene boards using a notched trowel; then the slabs are glued to the walls with minimal gaps with a spacing of the vertical joints between the rows.

Attention: disc dowels used for external insulation can be used in this case, but undesirable: they leave loopholes for steam in the insulation.

• When the glue has set, the seams are filled with silicone sealant. Our goal is absolute vapor impermeability.
• The surface is pasted over with wallpaper using an aqueous solution of PVA glue. If finishing with structural plaster is planned - the wall is reinforced with fiberglass mesh on the same glue; then the mesh is finished.

Styrofoam and mineral wool

You can also use a galvanized drywall profile.

• The space between the bars is filled with heat-insulating material. It is set flat on the back. In the case of styrofoam, it doesn't hurt to foam the seams.
• The insulation is carefully sewn up with a vapor barrier film or, even better, with two or three millimeter foam foams. The material is attached to the bars with a stapler with overlapping strips; then all seams are carefully glued with construction tape.
• A false wall of plasterboard is assembled on top of the crate, wall panels or lining.

Advice: how to insulate a brick bath from the inside? Mineral wool is used as a heater; vapor barrier is made with dense foil glued with aluminum tape; then the wall is sewn up with linden clapboard.

Conclusion

As we found out, it is undesirable to insulate a brick house from the inside. However, if necessary, you can still do it without negative consequences (find out here).

In the video presented in this article, you will find additional information on this topic. Good luck in construction!

Ever since childhood, when our parents read the fairy tale "Three Little Pigs" to us, we understood that a brick house is the most reliable, and no wolf will blow it away.

Brick walls - this is strength, tested by time, and therefore no troubles in a brick house will be terrible. However, brick, like everything else, has disadvantages - walls made of it must be carefully insulated, since it weakly restrains heat.

Let's tell you a little theory. For example, walls that lie in one layer 40-60 cm thick made of bricks or ceramic blocks can keep the level of heat in the house 2-3 times worse than necessary for a comfortable stay. So that's it.

What should we do now? The answer is very simple - we will insulate the walls with our own hands.

Internal insulation of a brick wall

First, let's take a look at what the internal insulation of brick walls is. First, you need to waterproof our wall with Ondurin vapor barrier film. Then we need to put insulation on the wall and again cover it with a vapor barrier film.

External insulation of a brick wall

External wall insulation is much better from a professional point of view. At the very least, we will win by preserving the area of \u200b\u200bour house, as well as not complicating our life during the insulation work. Anyway, any repair work Is dust, dirt and nerves.

However, these are not the only reasons. For example, the moisture that is formed daily from the air in the room goes into the walls, and in the wall there is a transition from heat to cold. Thus, the dew point will form in our room, which means that we will have to freeze quite strongly in winter. Why do we need this? That's right, we don't need this, which means that we will insulate the brick wall outside the house.

Which insulation is best for the house

In order to qualitatively insulate the walls of a brick house, there are dozens of insulation materials. The highest quality insulation is considered to be expanded polystyrene (gas-filled material) and mineral wool. If your finances are tight enough, you can use regular foam.

Let's summarize the insulation:

• styrofoam;
• expanded polystyrene;
• mineral wool.

The most important thing is that heaters will not prevent you from cladding with siding or wood, since all such heaters are placed in the gap after the wall, in front of the cladding.

How to insulate a brick house

• Insulation of walls with mineral wool is mainly due to the fact that, unlike expanded polystyrene, it does not burn.
• Insulation of walls with expanded polystyrene is mainly if the situation with finances is rather tight.
• Insulating walls with foam is the cheapest method, but it retains heat worse.

Answer the question of how to insulate a brick house yourself, based on our recommendations. By and large, it all depends on how much you are willing to spend on the thermal insulation of your home.

Now some statistics. People who live in private houses, cottages and summer cottages believe that by insulating with foam, we doom ourselves to the fact that in the summer it will be unbearably hot in the house. But is it? Now we will deal with you.

Let's look at the properties of the insulation, they consist in the fact that in winter it must retain heat, and in summer, respectively, cold. Let us draw your attention to the fact that modern heaters are able to remove moisture from the house without absorbing it.

Our ancestors also knew that 40% of thermal energy is spent on heating the room, but why do we need extra spending? We will avoid them by high-quality wall insulation.

The whole point thermal insulation materials lies in the fact that they are able to increase the thickness of the brick wall. So feel free to insulate, in the end you still save!

How to insulate a brick wall from the outside

In order to produce proper insulation brick walls outside with your own hands, you need to start with the correct installation of the insulation. Let's imagine that we will be laying siding.

First of all, we make the lathing with wooden slats along the entire wall of the house. We will fix them in the range of thirty centimeters from each other. We select the thickness of the slats corresponding to the thickness of the insulation. Then we put mineral wool between them.

In order to avoid the contraction of moisture by the insulation during the rain, we need to lay a film that will not allow moisture to penetrate into the room.

Now, to protect the house from the wind, we need to put a protective film on top of everything that we put, which will protect our premises from the gusty wind. That's it, now with the help of a stapler we fix the film and insulation with slats, and on top we make a crate, to which we will fix the siding.

If a decision is made to insulate the house with expanded polystyrene, then purchase TEPLEX. This material differs from polystyrene in that it does not support combustion, is not toxic, and has very good sound insulation parameters.

Styrofoam, of course, is also a good insulation, especially when it comes to price, then buy it. If you want to know our opinion, then we believe that it is better to spend a little more money on the insulation of brick walls with expanded polystyrene, since the advantage of this material on the face.

And so, let's go to insulate

We start by making putty on all sheets of insulation. You need to spread all the sheets in turn, and over their entire area. We use construction adhesive cement. Then we take the sheets and press them tightly against our wall and tap them with a mallet.

Now, while the glue is still fresh, take the Styrofoam sheets and drill through them in all four corners and in the middle. Then, in the holes drilled in the wall, we insert special chops, and we hammer in the umbrellas, making indentations so that they do not crawl out beyond the thickness of the foam.

After 24 hours, a plastic mesh is laid on the foam and covered with a thin layer of cement. This is done to protect the foam from the harmful effects of sunlight. If you plan to lay siding on top of the foam, then wood blocks must be laid between the siding sheets.

Lathing material

In order to make a crate with your own hands, you can buy a bar from coniferous tree size 40x20. As for the insulation, we can say that it exists in two types: basalt and fiberglass based.

Basalt based insulation:

• ROCKWOOL stone wool,
• TECHNOLIGHT plates,
• Stone wool PAROC (Euroclass A1),
• Mineral wool insulation Isolite.

Fiberglass insulation:

• Mineral wool isover,
• Mineral wool knauf,
• Ursa mineral wool,
• Isoroc mineral wool.

As diffusion membrane use:

• waterproofing material Yutavek 115/85
• waterproofing material Tyvek Soft / Solid.

Be sure to lay vinyl siding brands on top of the insulation:

• Variform (USA),
• Vytec (Canada),
• Royal (Poland),
• Tecos (Belgium),
• Georgia Pacific (USA).

In order to secure the siding with high quality, you will need sharp self-tapping screws for fastening sheets with a press washer or their equivalent. So that is all! Now, proceed to the insulation of the brick walls of your house.

You can also watch a video on how to insulate brick walls:

While heating leaves much to be desired, making the microclimate inside the house uncomfortable, external factors constantly negatively affect the state of its structures. Therefore, it is important to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside or outside.

To insulate a brick house from the inside to be effective, you need to know about an important factor, which we will talk about before considering the basic materials and technologies for insulating a brick house from the inside.

It is very important that it grows from layer to layer from the inner wall to the outer wall. This factor is very important because during the non-warm season in residential premises the humidity is significantly higher than outside. Everyone living in the house breathes, which means that the air is filled with moisture. Household processes from cleaning to cooking also play a role; as a result, the air is humidified, but does not go outside.

The warmer the air, the more moisture it can retain. So that the walls do not sweat, there is no condensation and dampness in the corners, it is important to correctly solve the issue of vapor permeability of the materials used in insulation. If the insulation of brick walls does not imply a vapor-permeable outer layer, the wall is guaranteed to be damp.

The location of a brick house from the inside is not the most effective type of insulation, since the ideal situation is when the house is insulated from the outside. If everything is not done correctly, the dew point will fall on the brick wall itself, which will accelerate the destruction of the structure, especially buildings made of silicate solid bricks, which are most afraid of moisture. If your house is built of exactly this, besides, protect the walls with roof canopies, but do not forget about the outflow of steam, which in this case becomes even more important!

Insulation of brick walls from the inside leads to the fact that the dew point is located directly behind the insulation, violation of technology is fraught with dampness and mold. External insulation, of course, will ensure that the entire wall is warmed up, steam escapes outside, and there is no excess moisture.

But all of the above does not mean that it is impossible to insulate inside. There are many reasons why external insulation may not be possible. For example:

1. We cannot insulate architectural monuments outside.
2. A high-rise building is being insulated upper floors, but there is no tower.
3. The neighboring walls are so close that there is no room to external thermal insulation was produced correctly.

These and other reasons force us to accept the fact that external insulation is impossible. And if you have chosen the internal option to insulate your house, you just need to understand well how to properly insulate a brick wall from the inside in order to be sure to comply with the technology. The main principle of which is as follows: we should separate the wall and its insulation from the room, make them airtight.

And there are two solutions here:

1. Internal insulation with a material, the vapor permeability of which will be extremely low. Such can be considered penofol, which is a heater with a layer of foil applied to foamed polyethylene. Also, extruded polystyrene foam has low vapor permeability if its surface is denser on one side. A prerequisite: both the foil side of the foam and that side of the extruded polystyrene foam, which is denser, must be laid towards the inner side.

1. Such a solution to the problem is also possible: wall insulation from the inside should assume the presence of a vapor-tight film, which will be located on the inside of the housing and hermetically cut the insulation from the inner wall. If you go this way, you should not leave a single tiny gap for moisture, be sure to overlap the vapor barrier film and carefully glue the seams

How it looks in practice

Now let's look at how to insulate a brick house from the inside, in practice.

If you chose expanded polystyrene, then your insulation is quite dense, 20-40 mm, and you can glue it directly onto the wall. The denser part looks inside the house, as you remember, and then it can be finished with a finish: glue the wallpaper, plaster it. By the way, if you are not insulating a house, but, for example, a bathhouse, but also made of bricks, extruded polystyrene foam, as well as other polymeric materials, will not work here, since with significant heating they will release toxic substances into the air.

To insulate the walls from the inside, start with processing the walls: they must be leveled and primed with an antiseptic composition, which will ensure the absence of fungi on the wall. Armed with regular tile adhesive or foam adhesive, apply the adhesive to the slabs pre-rolled with a needle roller with a notched trowel to greatly improve adhesion. Glue the plates tightly to each other, make a vertical spacing between the seams of the rows. Wait for the glue to dry, then fill all the resulting joints with a silicone-based sealant. You must achieve maximum vapor tightness. You can paste over the resulting surface with wallpaper, for which an aqueous solution of PVA glue will be enough. But if you want structural plaster in the house from the inside, then you also need to reinforce the surface with fiberglass mesh, for which the same glue is suitable, and after the mesh has dried, proceed to decorative finishing.

You may have chosen Styrofoam. This is a more affordable option, so you should not discount it, many owners of brick houses prefer it. The disadvantages of these materials for a brick house are high vapor permeability and low density. Therefore, competent installation is also very important here. And it is made by crate.

Therefore, before insulating a brick wall from the inside, first we take bars of the same thickness as the plate of your insulation. With a step not much narrower than a slab of insulating material, we erect a crate on the wall. We fill the resulting windows with insulation, it must be laid with a roll. If you decide to use Styrofoam, then take this additional measure protection, like foaming the seams.

When the insulation is laid, a vapor-tight insulating film is placed on top. However, the most ideal protection for interior walls will be, if you instead use penofol with a thickness of 2-3 mm, fastening it with an overlapping stapler. Be sure to cover the seam with construction tape.

At the end of the process of insulating a brick house from the inside with your own hands, you need to attach a fake drywall wall to the bars, you can also use lining or wall panels.

More briefly about materials

Styrofoam - a good choice, however, during installation, you will get many seams, and each of them can become a cold bridge. Safe and effective insulation will be possible only with absolute sealing of each of them, which in practice is not always possible to achieve with novice craftsmen.

Polyurethane foam is good for brick houses, but difficult to install, which is a significant disadvantage for many buyers. Mechanical instability can also be added to them, that is, the insulation requires additional protection. Extruded polystyrene foam is also great, you can do all the work yourself, the positive properties of the material overlap its disadvantages.

As you can see, it is effectively possible to insulate the walls of a brick house from the inside, but if there is such an opportunity, it is still better to carry out external insulation.

The video below shows in detail the entire process of wall insulation from the inside:

Content:

Insulation of a brick house is the main task of builders after the construction of the walls. Often, the owners give preference to internal insulation. Having chosen this option, you need to understand that you will have to part with a part of the usable area in each of the rooms. And also do not forget about the competent insulation of the insulation from the steam. High humidity affects the performance of the thermal insulation material.

Steam permeability

In any living space, the walls should lead the accumulated steam towards the street. Increased humidity appears:

1. As a result of breathing, washing, washing dishes, showering and bathing by residents. If the windows are closed (which is common during the heating season), all moisture remains in the rooms and settles on the walls. Even a good ventilation system cannot completely cope with such a problem.
2. As a result of the temperature difference. When heated, room air can hold more moisture than when it cools. When it comes into contact with colder walls, the air releases water as condensation. This process is clearly visible on the windows "crying" in frost. In winter, excess dampness also manifests itself in the corners of the living room in the form of mold or wetting of the walls.

Hence arises general rule: the better the wall passes steam, the faster the humidity level in the house normalizes. "Breathable" construction Materials filter the condensate through the pores (capillaries) and take it out.

If the wall is impervious to moisture, water vapor, when it encounters an insurmountable obstacle, begins to accumulate in the thickness of the structure, which leads to the gradual destruction of the building.

Dew point

According to professional builders, insulation is best done outside. Only in exceptional situations can thermal insulation be installed indoors. The main reason for this caution is the position of the dew point in case of improper insulation.

Note: red brick is more resistant to moisture than silicate... White brick houses will have to be protected from getting wet with a vengeance: to protect them from atmospheric precipitation outside and the accumulation of condensation inside.

If you consider different options for insulation, you will notice the following patterns:

1. When the heat-insulating layer is placed outside, the entire wall remains protected from atmospheric precipitation and freezing in winter. Steam leaves the room without any problems without dampening the supporting structures.
2. When the insulation is placed inside, the dew point shifts towards the inner surface of the walls or into the thickness of the structure. As a result, the house becomes damp, mold forms and slow decay occurs. load-bearing structures buildings.

As for houses without insulation, the dew point in them is guaranteed to fall into the thickness of the walls, leading to rapid deterioration of the brickwork.

When you can't insulate the outside?

Ideally, place a layer of insulation outside the building along its facade. But the owners do not always manage to implement this option. There may be several reasons for this:

• it is forbidden to change the facade of the house because of its historical value (the situation is typical for old brick apartment buildings);
• insulation work must be carried out at a high altitude, and the owners do not have the opportunity to contact professional builders;
• the distance between adjacent houses is too small to allow working with external walls.

In all these cases, you will have to resort to internal insulation. The main task in such a situation is to avoid the harmful effects of condensation on the insulation.

There are two common ways to solve it:

1. When using mineral (basalt) wool, the vapor barrier film is overlapped, and all seams are carefully glued.
2. When using materials with very low permeability, you can abandon the vapor barrier film, since the insulation does not get wet. As such a material, you can choose polystyrene foam or foam foam with a foil layer.

Using different materials

Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense insulation in its own technical specifications close to foam. With a thickness of only 2 centimeters, such insulation can be glued to the walls without any problems. EPPS does not absorb condensation and steam, and its strength allows you to apply plaster or glue wallpaper directly to the outside, facing the room.

The only significant disadvantage is the fear of open fire. For this reason, EPS is not used in saunas, boiler rooms and baths.

Work order:

1. The brickwork is leveled with cement mortar and then treated with an antiseptic compound.
2. EPPS sheets are attached with tile adhesive. To improve the degree of adhesion between surfaces, the insulation is processed on one side with a spiked roller. The adhesive is applied with a notched trowel.
3. After the glue dries, all joints are treated with silicone sealant. It is not recommended to use dowels with umbrellas, as heat will be lost through the holes.
4. A fiberglass mesh is installed on top with glue, on which you can apply decorative plaster... Wallpaper is glued without a grid using PVA diluted with water.

Mineral wool is an environmentally friendly, but rather capricious material. It has good heat and sound insulation characteristics, but at the same time, cotton wool absorbs moisture. The main task during installation is to provide protection against steam.

Work order:

1. A frame made of wooden blocks is installed on the prepared wall, treated with an antiseptic.
2. The space is covered with a vapor barrier film. All joints are sealed with adhesive tape.
3. The prepared cells are placed basalt slabsthat are inserted by surprise.
4. A vapor barrier film is spread on top. All joints are overlapped and well glued with special tape.
5. On the crate are performed finishing work... You can attach moisture-resistant drywall, wood paneling or PVC board to the bars.

Polyfoam is installed according to a similar algorithm. With the exception of a vapor barrier film, it is not needed when using this insulation. It is recommended to blow out the joints between the plates with polyurethane foam. And each of the plates must be additionally fixed with five dowels with "umbrellas". After the foam hardens, it is necessary to remove its excess and proceed to the facing work.

An important point: the bars for the frame are selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation, and the size of the cells should be slightly less than the width of the sheet (plate).

Penofol or foamed polyethylene can be used as an independent insulation for brick country houses, used mainly in the summer.

The same material is suitable as an additional vapor barrier layer when using mineral wool. The main advantage of the insulation is its small thickness with excellent thermal insulation characteristics (4 mm equals 8 cm basalt wool).

When choosing penofol, it is necessary to take into account that it has different brands: one-sided foil with a self-adhesive base, double-sided foil and one-sided foil. Insulation with one layer of foil is used for walls, and a double-sided mark is suitable for work with interfloor floors.

Work order:

1. Wooden slats are attached to the prepared wall. The frame must provide a gap between the insulation and brick wall 1.5-2 centimeters.
2. Thermal insulation is installed on the lathing with a stapler (with a foil layer inside the room).
3. All joints are glued with metal tape.
4. On top of the insulation, another crate is mounted, on which the facing material is attached. Walls can be sheathed with clapboard or drywall.
5. The drywall is covered with putty, dried, and then painted and pasted over with wallpaper.

Sticking foam foam directly on the walls reduces its insulating characteristics! This method is only suitable for summer cottages, which do not live in late autumn and winter.