Even a novice bricklayer is quite capable of building a brick oven for a brick house with your own hands. Due to the abundance and availability of information, it is enough just to choose a suitable design with an order and a detailed description of all stages of work, be patient and do the laying carefully and carefully. Let's consider in detail how to build a brick oven with your own hands.
The oven starts from the foundation
Even a small brick oven with your own hands, laid out in the country or in a bathhouse, weighs more than a ton. Therefore, you need to put it not on the floor, but on your own foundation.
The top cut of the foundation matches the level of the subfloor. It is necessary to pay special attention to the fact that the upper plane is perfectly horizontal. This will avoid skewing the masonry and greatly simplify the work of the stove-maker.
Two layers of roofing material, glassine or strong building film are laid on the foundation for waterproofing. A steel sheet and a layer of heat insulator are laid on top of the waterproofing (so that the heat does not go into the foundation). On this whole "pie" for the future brick oven, bricks of the first layer of masonry are laid with their own hands.
Preparation of mortar for oven masonry
Unlike a conventional wall, a brick stove with your own hands is built not on cement, but on clay-sand mortar. The compositions of solutions for fireclay and ceramic bricks are very different.
The mortar for fireclay bricks is prepared on the basis of white kaolin or fireclay marl. The minerals are characterized by high refractoriness and withstand temperatures above 1500 degrees. Dry masonry mixture for the preparation of refractory masonry mortar is usually purchased in retail chains.
The mortar for ceramic bricks is prepared on the basis of ordinary clay, which can be found in your area. Kiln clay is also sold in many building supermarkets.
100 pcs. brick will need about 40 kg of clay. The proportions of clay and sand are determined by trial batching. This is done as follows:
- The clay is soaked in cold water for a day.
- The batch is divided into 5 parts and a quarter, half, three quarters or an equal weight part of sand is added to each, respectively.
- All the resulting samples are mixed again until completely homogeneous and allowed to stand for 3-4 hours to remove excess moisture.
We test samples:
- roll them into sausages 1-1.5 cm thick and wrap them around any round object with a diameter of 5 cm.
- In the case when cracks of more than 2 mm have formed on the sample, the solution is not suitable.
- With a crack depth of up to 2 mm, the solution is suitable for those parts of the furnace where the heating temperature does not exceed 300 degrees.
- If the surface of the sample is not cracked or covered with a fine mesh, such a solution is quite suitable for making a furnace with your own hands.
Since the cost of sand is much lower than the cost of good kiln clay, the essence of the samples is to determine the maximum possible proportion of filler in the solution.
DIY brick oven for home video
Bricklaying technology
The furnace diagram shown below is distinguished by its simplicity and very high repeatability with a high success rate. A do-it-yourself brick stove is small in size and is suitable as a heat source for one room or a small one garden house... The area allotted for the oven is only 0.4 sq. m. A very small amount of brick is used for the construction, therefore it has very little weight.
The laying of the stove starts from the first row. To ensure a perfectly horizontal plane, a thin layer of washed river or rock sand can be poured under the brick. The sand will smooth out the difference in the thickness of the bricks, and at the same time will act as an additional heat insulator.
The basics of choosing a building material
The thickness of the mortar between the bricks should be 2-3 mm. A thicker seam will quickly crumble. For masonry, you need to choose the most even bricks with the same dimensions - since unevenness cannot be compensated for with mortar!
On the second row, we install the blower door. To compensate for thermal expansion, it is wrapped around the perimeter with an asbestos cord. The door is fastened with steel wire fixed in the masonry. To prevent the wire from interfering, grooves are cut in the brick with a grinder.
The third row is laid out already from fireclay bricks. The grates are placed on it after the clay has set.
The laying of the stoves of the fourth row is laid on the edge. If the grates do not fit into the free space, the brick must be cut in place, ensuring gaps of 3 mm on all sides.
When laying a brick oven, it is important to know!
The rear "knockout" brick is placed without mortar. It is needed to clean the channels.
On the fifth row, similar to the blower one, a combustion door is installed. The fifth row is laid flat, and these protruding bricks act as an external heat exchanger.
The seventh - ninth rows are laid out again flat. A cast iron hob is laid on top of the ninth row. An asbestos or fiberglass cord is also used for laying between metal and brick.
Using a cord to seal masonry
Without a sealing cord, smoke will enter the room and the clay solution will quickly crumble away from the thermal expansion of the cast iron plate.
The last three rows form a place for installing a light chimney. A metal valve is installed on the penultimate row. It should also be separated from the stone with an asbestos cord.
After complete drying of the masonry, the "knockout" brick is pulled out and construction waste is removed from the channel. So that the sand from under the stove does not spill out, a plinth is nailed along its perimeter.
Brick stoves for giving video
Choosing pipes for the chimney
Any metal or asbestos-cement pipe with a channel of about 200 square meters will serve as a chimney for this stove. cm, which corresponds to 11.5 cm in diameter for a circular section. The height of the upper edge of the pipe above the level of the grate of the combustion chamber is at least 4 m. The height of the part protruding above the roof is at least half a meter. If the stove smokes during the first starts, the chimney can be extended by 25-50 cm.
Brick oven decoration
The finished oven masonry is whitewashed outside with a simple chalk whitewash or thin plaster. You can add fat milk to the water as a binder. And to prevent the appearance of yellowness, ordinary blueing will help.
If you are deciding how to fold a higher-level stove, choose one of the available upgrading options:
- covering with decorative facade bricks or stove tiles;
- outer metal screen;
- decorative jointing or painting of joints with heat-resistant paint.
Brick and tile laying should be foreseen in advance, since during the construction process, external elements are tied with masonry. This work requires a lot of experience and is best left to professional stove-makers. It is better to install the metal screen not close, but at some distance from the furnace body. Then it will play the role of an air convector, which will significantly increase the heating rate of the room.
Outcome
Knowing how to build a stove in a house with your own hands, you can provide any small room with affordable heating. The experience gained during the first construction will form the basis for further improvement of this demanded skill.
Today, numerous manufacturers of solid fuel heating equipment offer us the widest range of metal stoves and boilers, which is replenished with new and new models from year to year. But despite all their advantages, the owners of non-gasified houses still retain the honor of an ordinary brick stove - this is evidenced by numerous reviews on thematic forums. What is the reason for the truly popular love for this unit? Our article will not only give an answer to this question, but also acquaint the reader with various types of furnaces and the technology of building a brick type with their own hands.
Advantages and disadvantages of a brick oven in the house
So, let's try to understand why an ancient heating device is often more preferable than its modern high-tech counterparts. There are several reasons:
- The furnace body is an excellent heat accumulator: Due to this property, a brick furnace has to be heated much less frequently than a conventional steel and even cast iron. Some varieties keep heat up to 24 hours, while firewood needs to be thrown into the firebox of a metal stove every 4–6 hours.
- The ability to accumulate heat makes the brick oven more economical and less harmful to the environment than its metal "substitutes". The fuel burns in it in the optimal mode - with the highest heat transfer and almost complete decomposition of organic molecules into water and carbon dioxide. The resulting excess heat is absorbed by the brickwork and then gradually transferred to the room.
- The outer surface of the oven does not heat up to high temperatures.
Due to this, the heat radiation generated by this unit is softer than that of hot steel stoves. In addition, on contact with hot metal, the dust contained in the air burns up, emitting harmful volatile substances (this can be recognized by the characteristic unpleasant odor). Of course, they cannot be poisoned, but they certainly do harm to health.
- A brick oven (this does not apply to stone) emits steam when heated, and when it cools, it absorbs it again. This process is called oven breathing. Thanks to him, relative humidity heated air always remains at a comfortable level - within 40-60%. When working any other heaterwithout a humidifier, the relative humidity in the room decreases, that is, the air becomes dry.
The steel stove has nowhere to put the excess heat, so it has to either be heated often by adding small portions of fuel, or operated in the smoldering mode. In the latter case, the operating time on one fuel tab increases, but it burns out with incomplete heat transfer and with big amount carbon monoxide and other substances harmful to the environment - the so-called. heavy hydrocarbon radicals.
It is not difficult to verify this: a brick stove gives out noticeable dark smoke only during kindling, while from the chimney steel furnace, in which the fuel smolders, black smoke comes down constantly. Metal solid fuel heaters are devoid of this drawback. long burning (full-fledged, and not so-called. gas generating furnaces, only simulating gas generation). But they are very expensive, have a complex structure and need an electrical supply, without which a brick oven can easily do.
What can be opposed to all of the above? The cooled room with a brick oven heats up for a long time. Therefore, homeowners are still advised to acquire an additional steel convector that heats the air in forced mode while the stove is heated.
It should also be noted that a brick oven is a rather massive structure that should be erected along with the house. And this should ideally be done by an experienced master who still needs to be found.
Application of brick ovens
The scope of application of stoves is not limited by their main functions - heating and cooking. Here are some other tasks that such a unit can solve:
- Smoking meat and fish.
- Remelting scrap metal (cupola furnace).
- Hardening and cementation of metal parts (muffle furnaces).
- Firing of ceramic products.
- Heating of blanks in a blacksmith shop.
- Maintaining the required temperature and humidity conditions in the bath.
But in poultry houses, greenhouses, greenhouses and livestock farms, it is not recommended to build a brick oven: here she will have to breathe putrefactive fumes, which will lead to quick spoilage.
Varieties of structures
The above scheme can be modified in different ovens. The most common options are Dutch, Swedish, Russian and bell-type.
Dutch woman
This scheme is called channel serial. Such a furnace is very simple to manufacture and its design can be easily adjusted to any room, but the maximum efficiency for it is only 40%.
Dutch oven
Swedish unit
Highly good option heating and cooking oven.
Swedish oven
A very good version of a heating and cooking stove. Its scheme is called a chamber. The chamber, the walls of which are washed by hot flue gases, is used as an oven. The duct convector is located behind the oven and occupies the entire space from floor to ceiling. This scheme has several advantages:
- Efficiency at the level of 60%;
- a heat exchanger can be installed on the side of the oven to heat water, which will be stored in a storage tank on the oven roof;
- gases enter the convector relatively cold (they burn out in the chamber part), therefore, building bricks and ordinary cement-sand mortar can be used for its construction;
- a convector with this shape warms up the room to its full height as evenly as possible;
- near a Swedish oven, you can quickly warm up and dry out if you open the oven door.
Furnaces of this type are difficult to manufacture, require very high quality materials and require a foundation.
Bell furnace
Self-regulation scheme: flue gases enter the chimney only after they have completely burned out under the hood.
Bell furnace
Such a mechanism provides an efficiency of over 70%, but this furnace is rather complicated to manufacture (there are high loads in the design). And it can only be used for heating.
Russian stove stove
The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector is not provided in it.
Russian stove
The scheme of the Russian stove, like the English fireplace, is called flowing. The convector is not provided in it. The owner of the Russian stove wins in the following:
- The efficiency reaches 80%;
- the structure has an interesting appearance;
- such dishes of our national cuisine become available for cooking that you cannot cook otherwise than in a Russian oven.
The Russian stove can be folded independently if you follow the drawings carefully. The slightest deviations can ruin the structure.
General device of the furnace, drawing
The design of the furnace is not particularly complicated.
Structural units brick oven
In the brick massif there is a chamber with a door in which fuel burns - a firebox (in the figure - positions 8 and 9). In its lower part there is a grate (pos. 7), on which fuel is placed and through which air enters the furnace. There is another chamber under the grate, called an ash pan or a blower, which is also closed by a door (pos. 4 and 6). Through this door, air from the outside enters the furnace and through it the ash that has fallen into it is removed from the ash pan.
Through an opening at the rear wall, flue gases enter the hailo (pos. 11) - an inclined duct directed towards the front wall. Haylo ends with a constriction - a nozzle. This is followed by a U-shaped channel called a gas convector (pos. 16).
The walls of the gas convector heat up the air moving through a special channel inside the oven. This duct is called an air convector (pos. 14). At its outlet there is a door (pos. 18), which is closed in summer.
The chimney contains the following elements:
- cleaning door (pos. 12): through it the flue duct is cleaned;
- a valve for setting the combustion mode (pos. 15);
- view (pos. 17): it is also a valve, by means of which, after firing up, when all the carbon monoxide has already evaporated, the chimney is blocked in order to retain heat.
The thermal insulation surrounding the chimney at the intersection of the attic floor and the roof is called cutting (pos. 23). At the intersection of the ceiling, the chimney walls are made thicker. This broadening is called fluffing (item 21), it is also considered cutting.
After crossing the roof, the chimney has another widening - an otter (pos. 24). It does not allow rain moisture to penetrate into the gap between the roof and the chimney.
Other positions:
- 1 and 2 - foundation with heat and waterproofing;
- 3 - legs or trenches: for a stove with such elements, less brick is required, moreover, it has an additional heating surface from below;
- 5 - the beginning of a special air channel (strangler), through which uniform heating of the room is achieved in height;
- 10 - furnace roof;
- 13 - bend of the air convector, called overflow or pass;
- 20 - stove overlap;
- 22 - attic floor.
Preparation for construction
Required materials, selection
When building a furnace, the following types of bricks are used:
- Building ceramic bricks (red). They lay out the lowest rows - the so-called underfloor part (indicated by oblique shading in the diagram), as well as that part of the chimney in which temperatures below 80 degrees are observed.
- Furnace ceramic bricks. It is also red, but in comparison with construction it has a higher quality (brand - M150) and can withstand higher temperatures - up to 800 degrees. Outwardly, they can be distinguished by their size: the dimensions of the stove are 230x114x40 (65) mm, while for the construction one - 250x125x65 mm. The firebrick (furnace) part of the furnace is laid out with oven bricks, in the diagram it is indicated by hatching in a box.
- Fireclay brick. The firebox is lined with this material from the inside. It can withstand temperatures up to 1600 degrees, but its advantages are not limited to this. Fireclay brick combines a high heat capacity (it is a very "capacious" heat accumulator) and an equally high thermal conductivity.
Note! In this case, a facing brick cannot be used.
Due to the high thermal conductivity, it is impossible to lay out the hot part with fireclay bricks alone - the furnace will heat up too much and cool down very quickly due to intense heat radiation. Therefore, the outer surface must necessarily be laid out oven brick at least half a brick.
The dimensions of fireclay bricks are the same as those of the stove bricks. Often its quality is recommended to be determined by color depth, but this method is only valid for those products for which the clay was mined in one place. If we compare chamotte clay from different deposits, then the color does not always give an objective characteristic: a dark material may well be inferior in quality to light yellow.
On the surface of the brick there should be no shells and foreign inclusions visible to the eye
A more reliable indicator of quality is the absence of pores and foreign particles distinguishable by the eye, as well as a fine-grained structure (in the figure, a quality sample is on the left). When tapping with a metal object, a high-quality fireclay brick should emit a clear and clear sound, and when dropped from a certain height, it splits into large pieces. A low-quality one will respond to tapping with dull sounds, and when dropped, it will crumble into many small fragments.
Also, during the construction of the furnace, the following solutions are used:
- Cement-sand: those parts of the kiln that consist of ordinary building bricks, put on the usual cement-sand mortar.
- High quality cement-sand: this solution, consisting of rock sand and Portland cement of the M400 grade and higher, is used if an irregular furnace is supposed to be fired. The fact is that a dried clay solution, with insufficient heating, can become saturated with moisture and turn sour again. That is why, in areas with temperatures below 200-250 degrees (in the diagram - oblique shading with filling), instead of clay, a high-quality cement-sand mortar based on rock sand is used. We emphasize that this should be done only if the oven will often be idle during the cold season.
- Clay solution. This solution also requires mountain sand. It is characterized by the absence of organic residues, due to which the seams would quickly crumble. But now it is not necessary to buy expensive mountain sand: solutions of excellent quality are obtained on the basis of sand from ground ceramic or fireclay bricks.
- High-quality clay is more expensive than sand, so they try to minimize its amount in the solution.
To determine the smallest required amount of this material, subject to the use of sand from ground bricks, proceed as follows:
- the clay is soaked for a day, then mixed with water until it looks like plasticine or thick dough;
- dividing the clay into portions, prepare 5 solution options: with the addition of 10% sand, 25, 50, 75 and 100% (by volume);
- after 4 hours of drying, each portion of the solution is rolled into a cylinder 30 cm long and 10–15 mm in diameter. Each cylinder should be wrapped around a 50mm blank.
We analyze the result: a solution without cracks or with small cracks in the surface layer itself is suitable for any task; with a crack depth of 1–2 mm, the solution is considered suitable for masonry with a temperature of no more than 300 degrees; with deeper cracks, the solution is considered unusable.
Tool
In addition to the standard set of tools for masonry work, which includes:
- trowel;
- hammer pick;
- cutting for seams;
- mortar shovel.
Such a set of tools must be stocked up before starting work.
The stove-maker must have a rake-order. It has a section of 5x5 cm, staples for fastening in the seams and marks corresponding to the position of the individual rows. Having installed 4 orders at the corners, it will be easy to ensure the verticality of the masonry and the equality of the width of the seams between the rows.
Calculation of a simple heater
The method for calculating the furnace is extremely complex and requires a lot of experience, but there is a simplified version proposed by I. V. Kuznetsov. It demonstrates a fairly accurate result, provided that the outside of the house is well insulated. For 1 m 2 of the furnace surface area, the following heat transfer values \u200b\u200bare taken:
- under normal conditions: 0.5 kW;
- in severe frosts, when the stove is heated especially intensively (no more than 2 weeks): 0.76 kW.
Thus, a furnace with a height of 2.5 m and dimensions in plan of 1.5x1.5 m, with a surface area of \u200b\u200b17.5 m 2, will generate 8.5 kW in the normal mode, and 13.3 kW in the intensive mode. This performance will be sufficient for a house with an area of \u200b\u200b80–100 m 2.
The calculation of the firebox is also very complicated, but today it is not necessary. Than to design and manufacture a homemade firebox, it is better to buy a ready-made one in the store: it is already calculated according to all the rules and will be cheaper.
When choosing a firebox, consider the following:
- The size and location of the firebox must correspond to the size of the brick used.
- For a stove that is used from time to time, you can purchase a welded sheet steel firebox; for permanent use, you only need to buy a cast iron firebox.
- The depth of the ash shaft (the lower narrowing of the furnace) should be one third of the height of the combustion chamber if most of the time the stove will be fired with coal or peat, and one fifth if wood fuel or pellets are the main fuel.
The cross-section of chimneys that meet the standard requirements (straight vertical passage, head height above the grate is from 4 to 12 m) is selected according to the recommendations specified in SNiP, depending on the furnace power:
- with heat transfer up to 3.5 kW: 140x140 mm;
- from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
- from 5.2 to 7.2 kW: 140x270 mm;
- from 7.2 to 10.5 kW: 200x200 mm;
- from 10.5 to 14 kW: 200x270 mm.
It is impossible to accurately calculate the power of the stove, therefore, sometimes there may be a discrepancy between the adopted section of the chimney and the performance of the unit - the stove begins to smoke. In this case, it is enough to simply increase the height of the chimney by 0.25–0.5 m.
Empirical formulas have been developed to determine the number of bricks, but they give an error of up to 15%. The only way to do an accurate manual calculation is to simply count the bricks in order, which will only take about an hour. A more modern option is to simulate the oven in one of the computer programs intended for this. The system itself will draw up a specification, which will indicate the exact number of whole bricks, as well as cut, shaped, etc.
Choosing a place, schemes
The way the stove is installed depends on the size of the house and the location of the various rooms in it. Here is an option for a small country house:
Successful layout for a country house
In the cold season, such a stove will heat the entire building with high quality, and in summer, with an open window, you can cook on it quite comfortably.
In a big house with permanent residence the oven can be positioned like this:
This design solution is suitable for a capital house
In this version, the fireplace stove installed in the living room is equipped with a purchased cast iron firebox with a heat-resistant glass door.
And thus, a brick stove can be installed in an economy class dwelling:
The best option for an economy class house
When considering the location of the oven, consider the following:
- A structure with more than 500 bricks must have its own foundation, which cannot be part of the foundation of the house.
- The chimney must not come into contact with the attic floor beams and roof rafters. It should be borne in mind that in the intersection zone of the attic floor, it has a broadening, called a fluff.
- The minimum distance from the pipe to the ridge of the roof is 1.5 m.
There are exceptions to the first rule:
- The hob with a low and wide body, equipped with a heat shield, can be installed without a foundation if the floor is capable of withstanding a load of at least 250 kg / m2.
- In a house with a strip sectional foundation, a stove with a volume of up to 1000 bricks can be erected at the intersection of the foundations interior walls (including T-shaped). Wherein minimum distance from furnace foundation up to the building foundation strips is 1.2 m.
- A small Russian stove can be erected on a base of a wooden beam with a section of 150x150 mm (the so-called guardianship), resting on the ground or rubble laying of the building foundation.
Preparatory work consists in setting up the foundation and laying heat and waterproofing. If the furnace is equipped with trenches, a strip foundation, you can rubble. An ordinary stove (without trenches) is erected on a monolithic reinforced concrete slab. On each side, the foundation should protrude at least 50 mm beyond the outline of the furnace.
The insulating "pie" is typed in the following sequence:
- roofing material is laid on the foundation in 2 or 3 layers;
- basalt cardboard 4–6 mm thick or the same sheet of asbestos is placed on top;
- then put a sheet of roofing iron;
- it remains to lay the last layer - basalt cardboard or felt impregnated with highly diluted masonry mortar.
Laying can only be started after the top layer has dried to the roof gland.
Before the start of masonry work, a fireproof covering must be built on the floor in front of the future furnace, which is usually a sheet of roofing iron laid on a lining of asbestos or basalt cardboard. One edge of the sheet is pressed by the first row of bricks, the rest are bent and nailed to the floor. The front edge of such a coating should be at least 300 mm away from the oven, while its side edges should extend beyond the oven by 150 mm on each side.
Step-by-step instruction
Masonry rules in accordance with the order
The oven is placed in accordance with the order (see fig.).
Furnace masonry scheme
Follow these rules:
- The seams between the bricks in the firebox vault and the underfloor part can be up to 13 mm wide, in other cases - 3 mm. Deviations are allowed: upwards - up to a width of 5 mm, downwards - up to 2 mm.
- It is impossible to dress the seams between the ceramic and fireclay masonry - these materials differ greatly in thermal expansion... For the same reason, seams in such areas, as well as around metal or concrete elements, are given a maximum thickness (5 mm).
- The laying must be carried out with the bandaging of the seams, that is, each seam must be overlapped by a neighboring brick at least a quarter of its (brick) length.
- The layout of each row begins with corner bricks, the position of which is checked with a level and a plumb line. So that the verticality does not have to be checked every time, the cords are pulled strictly vertically along the corners of the furnace (for this you need to hammer nails into the ceiling and into the seams between the bricks) and then they are guided by them.
- Doors and dampers are fixed in the masonry by means of knitting wire laid in the seams, or by means of clamps made of steel strip 25x2 mm. The second option is for the firebox door (especially its upper part), oven and heat dampers: here the wire will quickly burn out.
In the fluff and otter, only the outer size of the chimney increases, the inner section remains unchanged. The thickness of the walls increases gradually, for which plates cut from bricks are added to the masonry. The inner surface of the chimney must be plastered.
How to make a heating unit with your own hands
The erection of the furnace body begins from the underfloor part.
Having finished the construction of the furnace body, they begin to build the chimney.
Features of the formation of the arch
The vaults are of two types:
- flat: vaults of this type are laid from shaped bricks in the same way, but instead of a circle, a flat pallet is used. A flat vault has one feature: it must be perfectly symmetrical, otherwise it will crumble very soon. Therefore, even stove-makers with sufficient experience build this part of the stove using purchased shaped bricks and the same pallets;
- semicircular (arched).
The latter are laid out using a template, also called a circle:
- They begin with the installation on the solution of the extreme support blocks - thrust bearings, which are pre-cut according to the drawing of the arch, made in full size.
- After the solution has dried, a circle is installed and the wings of the arch are laid out.
- The castle stones are driven in with a log or a wooden hammer, after applying a thick layer of mortar to the installation site. At the same time, they monitor how the solution is squeezed out of the wing masonry: if the masonry was performed without disturbances, this process will take place evenly throughout the entire arch.
Formation of a semicircular arch
The circle should be removed only after the solution has completely dried.
The angle between the axes of adjacent bricks in a semicircular vault should not exceed 17 degrees. When standard sizes blocks the seam between them inside (from the side of the firebox) should have a width of 2 mm, and outside - 13 mm.
Rules and nuances of operation
For a stove to be economical, it must be maintained in good condition. A crack just 2 mm wide in the area of \u200b\u200bthe valve will provide a heat loss of 10% due to the uncontrolled flow of air through it.
It is also necessary to heat the stove correctly. With a strongly open blower, from 15 to 20% of the heat can fly into the pipe, and if it is open during fuel combustion furnace door, then all 40%.
The firewood used to heat the stove must be dry. To do this, they need to be prepared ahead of time. Raw firewood gives less heat, and in addition, due to the abundance of moisture in the chimney, a large amount of acid condensate is formed, which intensively destroys the brick walls.
In order for the oven to warm up evenly, the thickness of the logs should be the same - about 8-10 cm.
Firewood is laid in rows or in a cage, so that a gap of 10 mm remains between them. A distance of at least 20 mm should remain from the top of the fuel tab to the top of the firebox, even better if the firebox is 2/3 full.
Ignition of the bulk of the fuel is done with a torch, paper, etc. It is prohibited to use acetone, kerosene or gasoline.
After kindling, you need to close the view so that the heat does not erode through the chimney.
When adjusting the draft during kindling, you need to be guided by the color of the flame. The optimal combustion mode is characterized by a yellow fire color; if it turns white, air is supplied in excess and a significant part of the heat is thrown into the chimney; red color indicates a lack of air - the fuel does not burn completely, and a large amount of harmful substances is emitted into the atmosphere.
Cleaning (including from soot)
The stove is usually cleaned and repaired in the summer, while in the winter it will be necessary to clean the chimney 2-3 times. Soot is an excellent heat insulator and a large amount of soot will make the stove less efficient.
Ash must be removed from the grate before each firebox.
The draft in the furnace, and hence the mode of its operation, is regulated by a view, a latch and a blower door. Therefore, the state of these devices must be constantly monitored. Any malfunction or wear should be immediately repaired or replaced.
Video: how to fold the oven with your own hands
Whichever version of the brick oven you choose, it will work effectively only in a well-insulated house. Otherwise, there will be no friendship between them.
Even when planning to build our own house, we think about what kind of heating to make in it. Indeed, the construction of the project will depend on this decision. If there is a heating main near your house, you have received the necessary permission to connect, then you can simply do it yourself in the house. For example, when the centralized heating season has not yet begun. And in the absence of central heating, many owners of houses, summer cottages and cottages are inclined to build a brick oven for a house with their own hands.
Preparatory work
Before laying the stove, it is necessary to determine the place for its installation. Professionals advise those who are laying the stove for the first time, first to practice, to make a layout of the stove.
In the process of this work, it will be clear what masonry is, and if mistakes are made, then they will be obvious, and they can be corrected. It is important that the distance separating the chimney pipe and the roof overlap (rafters) is not less than 15 cm. If this rule is observed, you can mark the place allocated for the stove foundation.
It is carried out in size larger than the main structure of the furnace. Waterproofing is required for the foundation. One more rule: when performing masonry, do not forget to constantly monitor its correctness.
Furnace walls must be made strictly vertical. The attention to the corners is special. The rest of the masonry will depend on how correctly you build them.
For work you will need:
- trowel;
- putty knife;
- level;
- plumb line;
- lacing;
- container for solution;
- shovel or perforator;
- knitting wire;
- roulette.
Brief description of the methods and order of laying the furnace
Stove masonry can be of different types. For example, undercut masonry or masonry with empty seams. Their differences are significant.
With the first method of masonry, the finished brick oven is not subjected to plastering, since all the joints are filled with mortar. The walls are laid out either in a whole brick or in half.
There is also a 3/4 masonry option.
For the laying of the stove, bricks are used, designed specifically for these purposes.
Its other name is red, full-bodied. It is not recommended to use second-hand bricks or expanded clay blocks, as well as slotted bricks.
- The first row is laid out simply with bricks, without the use of mortar. After that, the bricks are aligned, the front wall is determined, the locations of all the doors are located. After this estimate, the bricks are laid on the mortar. After that, they move on to laying the corners.
- Further, adhering to the recommendations experienced craftsmen, you need to complete the entire furnace circuit. With the help of plumb lines, a string is pulled from the oven corners to the ceiling. These vertical lines will serve as a good guide for your work.
- The location of the places of the blower, combustion chamber, ash pan depends on which model of the stove is laid out. The blower door is equipped after 3 rows of masonry, a row after it - an ash pan.
- Next is the firebox. Fastening of the doors in the masonry is carried out using baked wire. When the turn comes for laying the furnace vault, it will be necessary to cut the bricks. Here you need a high-quality docking. The stove roof is laid after the 2nd row above the fire door.
For the lining of the combustion chamber, a special refractory brick is used. Due to the fact that such a brick and a brick used for masonry have different temperatures, there should not be a rigid connection between them.
When installing the chimney, a special valve equipped with a good adjustment system is provided.
Technological procedure for laying the furnace
After the first row is laid, we carry out the laying of corner bricks of the 2nd row, with the control of the verticality of the corners with a level or a plumb line. As well as row 1, first we lay out the perimeter, only then the middle of row 2.
- As mentioned above, we first lay out the first brick row without using mortar, taking into account the seams in accordance with the order.
- Next, we determine the position of the bricks at the corners, put them on the mortar, checking the horizontal position using a level. Using a mallet, we upset the bricks that protrude. After the required horizontal position is reached, we perform the first brick row using mortar, do not forget about the level.
- Using a tape measure, we check the size of the oven in plan and diagonal. Mandatory condition - equal value diagonals in a rectangle. If necessary, you need to knock out the corner bricks until the desired equality is achieved. Now you can lay a brick using mortar, the first row, more precisely, its middle.
- After the first row is laid, we carry out the laying of corner bricks of the 2nd row, with the control of the verticality of the corners with a level or a plumb line. As well as row 1, first we lay out the perimeter, only then the middle of row 2. Further, after completing 2 rows, it is necessary to hammer nails (80-100 mm) into the seam of the corners between 1 and 2 rows.
- Now we lower the plumb line in turn at all corners of the second row and make a mark on the ceiling of the points from which the lowering was made. After that, at the marked points, we hammer in nails of the same length, fasten the cord (nylon) and stretch it.
The vertical position of the cords is checked with a plumb line. Elimination of deviations is carried out by bending the upper nails. Thus, you have completed the contour of the future stove in space. All subsequent rows, or rather their verticality, must be controlled by the stretched cords. This will significantly reduce the time spent on inspection.
The laying of subsequent rows is performed in the same way, each new row is checked against the order. In the process of laying, we clean the inner and outer surfaces from excess mortar using a trowel. Every 4-5 rows we wipe the walls of the chimney with a wet rag.
The seams of the oven masonry, or rather their thickness, should be as thin as possible. Thick seams tend to chip away the mortar and weaken the masonry. The grouting of the joints should be tight, until the excess is squeezed out.
Another rule that must be followed is the brick binding rule. It implies that each vertical seam must necessarily be overlapped with a brick of the next row.
Most often, the location of the vertical seam is in the center of the brick lying in the next row. However, it does not always work out so well. Sometimes it is necessary to perform masonry, making the overlap not in the center, but less than half of the brick. It is better if this distance is not less than a quarter of the brick length.
If the brick is cut on one side, then it must be laid with this side outside the chimney. Since such a surface is weakened, it can quickly collapse under the influence of high temperature conditions.
The furnace firebox is traditionally laid out with. This is due to the fact that such a brick is more resistant to high temperatures.
It is not necessary to bandage the seams of masonry made of fireclay bricks and stove bricks, since they have a different coefficient of linear expansion. Either a row is laid out completely from fireclay bricks, or the furnace is lined with their own hands. The distance between the lining and the brick must be at least 5 mm.
Before installing the doors in their place, it is necessary to check them for the quality of tightness to the door leaf frame. Also, the freedom of rotation of the canvas on the hinges, the presence of distortions (or their absence), the quality of the door closing, the holes for fastening are also checked.
Before installing the doors in their place, you need to check them for the quality of tightness to the door leaf frame. Also, the freedom of rotation of the canvas on the hinges, the presence of distortions (or their absence), the quality of the door closing, the holes for fastening are also checked. If any defects are found, they must be eliminated before installation, or the door must be replaced completely.
To complete the installation, we use a knitting wire. The required length is about 50 cm. It must be inserted into the holes located on the door, and then doubled and twisted. In the place where the door will be installed, brickwork we process with a solution. We carry out the installation of the door with checking the vertical and horizontal position, then we fix it with bricks. The ends of the wire are laid in the masonry seams.
Installation of the firebox door is similar to the previous version. The difference is that it is wrapped in asbestos.
To prevent the wire from burning off, we fix the upper part of the door with a clamp. It can be made of steel (strip, 25x2.0). The clamp is attached to the door using rivets or bolts.
At a time when a stationary solid fuel stove was the only existing means of heating a house, the profession of a stove was very popular and respected. Today, for arranging individual heating, you can use many various unitsoperating on a wide variety of fuels, however, brick ovens are still in demand.
Nowadays, finding a truly competent stove-maker is not an easy task. And you don't need to do this, because you can lay out a full-fledged stove with your own hands.
Before you start laying the oven yourself, familiarize yourself with the features of the existing varieties of such units. Stoves are:
- heating. For heating purposes only. Such ovens have an extremely simple construction and are laid out in the shortest possible time and with the least effort in comparison with structures of other types;
- heating and cooking. The most popular and demanded option. Simultaneously heat the house and allow food to be cooked;
There are also improved varieties of heating and cooking stoves with a built-in cooking stove or even a full-fledged oven.
Fireplace stoves belong to a separate category. This is a great option for a modern private home. Such structures perfectly cope with the tasks of heating premises and have an attractive appearance. A properly laid out and finished fireplace stove will be a worthy addition to the interior of both a small country house and an expensive private villa.
Schemes of modern furnaces distinguish them not only by purpose, but also by their shape features. Most often, units of a rectangular and square shape are installed in private houses. But if you wish, you can lay out a round oven. Choose a specific option, taking into account the characteristics of the room and your own preferences.
The oven, of course, can be laid out with your own hands and numerous schemes will help you do this in the shortest possible time. However, when performing such work, remember that any stove, regardless of its purpose, shape and other characteristics, must fully comply with the current fire safety standards.
Choosing a place and type of foundation for the stove
Before laying the stove, pay due attention to finding a place to place it. For example, if the unit is placed in the middle of the room, it will be able to give off much more heat, warming up from all sides and evenly heating the air around.
If you place the stove against the wall (and this option is used most often), cold air will constantly "walk" near the floor. Therefore, in this regard, you need to make a decision yourself.
Determine the place of installation of the combustion door in advance. This element must be installed so that in the future you can load fuel into the stove as conveniently and quickly as possible, without carrying garbage from wood or coal throughout the house. Usually the furnace door is located on the side of the kitchen or some kind of little-visited room.
The finished brick stove will have a fairly impressive weight. In order for the device to stand as securely and long as possible, an individual concrete foundation must be prepared for it.
Furnace design features
Traditional brick ovens have a fairly simple design. However, seeming simplicity at first glance makes it possible to achieve very high rates of productivity and efficiency.
The main elements of the brick oven body are the firebox and chimney. Cooking ovens additionally equipped with stoves and / or ovens, it is also possible to install a tank for heating water.
The firebox is the main part of the furnace unit. It is in the firebox that firewood or other fuel used for heating is loaded. The firebox can be of various sizes. There are several important factors to consider when determining the appropriate dimensions, such as:
- type of fuel used. If you will heat the stove with wood, make a firebox 50-100 cm high;
- required performance;
- required volume.
Use refractory bricks to equip the firebox. The wall thickness of the structure under consideration cannot be less than half the brick.
The chimney is also one of the main elements of any heating stove. The chimney is designed to remove flue gases with various harmful impurities formed during the operation of the furnace.
At the design stage of the chimney, try to think over everything so that its design has the minimum number of bends and turns. Ideally, the chimney should be completely vertical. Any kind of bending will lead to a deterioration in draft and a decrease in the efficiency of heating the room.
The ash pan chamber is one of the important structural elements of a brick kiln. Ash will collect in this compartment. Also, through the ash pan, air is supplied inside the unit, to the fuel. The ash-pan is installed under the grate of the grate and is equipped with its own door. Traditionally, the height of the ash pan is 3 bricks.
What mortar to use for masonry?
The reliability and durability of the finished oven directly depends on the quality of the masonry mortar. Masonry will be carried out using a mortar on a sandy-clay basis.
There is nothing difficult in preparing a solution. Take clay, fill it with water and soak it. Sift the mixture through a sieve and then stir into the clay milk. Finally, add some water to obtain a sufficiently viscous and plastic solution.
Remember, the reliability and strength of the oven directly depends on the correct preparation of the masonry mortar. Do everything right - the stove will effectively heat your home for many years. Violate the technology or decide to save a lot on materials - the heating unit is unlikely to be able to fully reveal its potential and stand for any length of time.
The main stages and important features of the oven masonry
From the moment of pouring the foundation to the start of construction, 3-4 weeks should pass. During this time, the base will gain the necessary strength and be able to withstand the weight of the brick oven. The work in question requires maximum responsibility and concentration on the part of the performer. Any mistakes can lead to irreparable consequences, so tune in to work in advance and set aside sufficient time to complete it.
The oven is laid in several stages.
First stage. Lay out the ash pan and the lower part of the first hood out of bricks. Perform masonry using the previously discussed sand-clay mortar.
Second phase. Install the ash pan door in the masonry. Use galvanized wire to secure the door.
Install a grate above the ash pan chamber
Fourth stage. Mount the firebox. Line the inside of this compartment with fire bricks. Lay the bricks on the edge. At this stage, you need to use a special masonry mortar. It is prepared in the same way as the standard one, but instead of simple clay, refractory clay is taken, i.e. fireclay. Secure the combustion chamber door with a steel plate and a wire you already know.
Fifth stage. Continue normal laying until you reach the 12th row. Having reached this row, close the combustion chamber and lay the hotplate evenly. This plate must be made of cast iron. Control the evenness of laying with a building level.
Sixth stage. Lay out the first cap. It is erected at the left edge of the stove. At the same stage, the canal for the summer run is equipped.
Seventh stage. Place the hob and line the sides of the cooking compartment. Lead the calculation of the previously mentioned lower cap.
Eighth stage. Install the valve for the mentioned summer run channel. This latch is located in the inner corner of the brew compartment.
Ninth stage. Work up to the 20th row. When you reach this row, cover the brew compartment and the first hood. Be sure to leave in the solid masonry the required number of openings for the summer run and the lift channel, as well as the vents for the cooking compartment. Place bricks on steel corners - this will ensure higher strength and reliability of the stove.
Stage ten. Close the portal of the brewing compartment with hinged fireplace doors. It is better that the doors have heat-resistant glass inserts. This solution will allow you to monitor the process of fuel combustion and admire the flame.
Eleventh stage. Install cleanout doors for easy soot removal. For installation, choose a location that is easiest for you to get to.
Twelfth stage. Line the hood walls almost up to the top edge of the wall opening. At the top, block the stove with a couple of rows of bricks. Fill the gap between the top of the stove and the lintel with mineral wool. This will provide additional thermal insulation and slightly increase the heating efficiency.
Thirteenth stage. Place a decorative band around the top perimeter of the unit.
Fourteenth stage. Proceed with the installation of the chimney. It is better that the chimney is brick. This design will last much longer than the same metal or asbestos pipes.
In the end, you just have to lay out the chimney to the end and, if desired, complete the outer finish of the stove. The easiest option is plastering. Otherwise, focus on your own preferences and available budget.
Thus, laying the stove, although not a simple event, can be done by hand. It is enough to simply understand the technology and follow the instructions in everything. Remember, materials for work must be of the highest quality. And the oven schemes proven over the years will allow you to independently build a unit that will long years heat your home with high quality without any problems and complaints.
Happy work!
Video - Diy oven laying schemes
Heating stoves can be divided into 2 groups: modern ovens and stoves of outdated designs.
Classic Russian wood-burning stoves for home have characteristic advantages.
Instead of outdated, imperfect devices, new, more modern designs are being introduced today. heating furnaces.
A competent craftsman who introduces new types of such structures into life must have a good idea of \u200b\u200ball the shortcomings of the old samples that have survived. He must be able to repair or alter them. To do this, he must be familiar with the most common samples of not only new, but also obsolete devices, as well as know their drawings and be able to apply his knowledge in practice.
Masonry scheme for a two-tier stove for a home
1. Emptiness.
2. Top cover.
3. Verification.
4. Nozzle pipe.
The first picture shows a bunk oven. It consists of two structures that stand one on top of the other. The dimensions of each of the stoves are 165x51x238 cm. The heat output of the lower stove is 3200 kcal per hour, and that of the upper one is 2600 kcal per hour.
Furnaces for the home are separated by a brick lining with voids in order to be able to lighten the weight and save some amount of brick. The display that fills the space between the upper and lower oven will serve as the basis for the first.
The lower and upper furnaces have exactly the same design. The smoke circulation system is channelless here. The gases flow from the firebox into the upper bell, which has a nozzle. Gases, cooling down, descend and at the level of the bottom of the firebox through the curtain go into the stacked chimney.
The chimney of the lower furnace runs in the upper one; therefore, the heating surface is somewhat smaller in the latter. The upper structure has its own separate chimney. This device is characterized by simplicity of laying, and the scheme of gas movement is quite simple. The cleaning of the lower structure must take place through the door in back wall... In the side wall - top. The stove runs on anthracite or coal. Both chimneys are equipped with a pair of smoke dampers.
The upper part of the voids in bunk ovens is often covered with a solid reinforced concrete slab. Overlapping with a slab will contribute to the stability and strength of the entire structure of the array. The laying of such a volume must be done very carefully, because in addition to the fact that the structure must be covered with a slab, its repair is very difficult, which can cause some difficulties.
The chimney of the lower structure must also be laid out carefully. If there are leaks in the masonry, the wall that separates both pipes in the second floor will allow heat to pass from the upper structure even if both smoke dampers are closed.
In a common array, you can combine furnaces of almost any design, which have a square or rectangular shape and run on any type of fuel. Such a system will be a good heater for country house.
Diagram of a square furnace with bottom heating
The stove, which is shown in the figure, has a mixed (combined) flue system. The size of such a structure is 102x102x238 cm. The heat transfer will be 4200 kcal per hour.
The firebox of this furnace has a relatively high height. Side openings, which are symmetrically located (2 on each side), will serve for gas outlet into the side chambers of the outer side walls of the furnace. Further, the gas descends through the chambers, which are connected by a channel under the firebox, behind the ash pan.
Gases from each of the side chambers pass through the lower beams into the risers, through which they will further rise to the upper side chambers, which together form the upper bell. It consists of 3 cavities that are U-shaped.
The cavities are parallel. The hot gas will be retained at the top of the middle and rear cavities of the bell, and the cooled gas will pass along the lower part through the holes into the front plane, which is connected at the top with the chimney stacked pipe, and then go into the atmosphere.
Consequently, the stove is composed of 3 bells: an upper bell and 2 large chambers. The furnace has the ability to burn any of the solid fuel... If the structure will run on anthracite or coal, the walls of the firebox will need to be laid out of refractory bricks.
Furnace masonry with predominant bottom heating
1 and 3. Downpipes.
2. Lifting riser.
4. Chimney.
5. Cleaning.
6. Smoke dampers.
The following figure shows a furnace that has a preferential bottom heating. Its dimensions are 115x56x231 cm. Heat transfer will be 2640 kcal per hour. According to the chimney system, this design can be attributed to combined channel stoves with bottom heating.
Flue gases will descend from the firebox, and then rise to the ceiling with a riser. From there, 2 parallel moves will go down to 16 rows of masonry. Then they will go to the last riser, which goes into the chimney.
This design very rational and simple. It is able to provide a fairly good heating of the lower part and has self-regulation of movement in 2 channels of the upper part, which can be considered as a cap with a nozzle.
The principle of a gas blizzard allows air to pass along the bottom of the hood (as shown by the dotted line) without cooling it. This design is characterized by simplicity of masonry and is able to be located in a partition.
The fuel door and front wall open onto the corridor. The device has a nozzle tube. It can be operated both on wood and coal.
Kiln masonry, designed by V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo
The following figure shows the furnace of the channelless system of Professor V.E. Grum-Grzhimailo. It has absolutely no smoke flow. The design is round and enclosed in a sheet steel case. The gases will move in the furnace not so much under the influence of the chimney draft as under the influence of gravity. As a result, the heavier cooled gases will go down, and those that are hotter and, therefore, lighter, will rise up.
This device consists of 2 parts. The lower part is occupied by the firebox. There is a small haylo (mouth) in the firebox ceiling to ensure the passage of smoke gases to the upper part. The top is a chamber without smoke circulation. It looks like an overturned cap like a glass. That is why such furnaces are often called bell-type or channelless.
The heated smoke gases will not go out of the highlighter into the chimneys, because they first rise under the ceiling and, cooling down, descend along the walls to the very base. Here they will fall into the chimney, after which, under the influence of the draft, they will be carried away into the atmosphere.
Vertical A-A cut is made across the firebox, and B-B cut is made along it. Horizontal cuts are made from rows 1 to 9. On the 9-9 section, you can see the so-called buttresses. In other words, these are vertical ribs (a quarter of a brick) that run along the walls of the furnace from the stove overlap to the roof overlap. They will form a packing and arrange themselves to increase the internal surface of heat absorption and to better absorb the heat from the waste gases in the furnace array. Fins that are heated by gases may allow the oven to retain heat longer.
The device of the Grum-Grzhimailo design will use about 80% of the heat of the fuel that is burned. The iron case is capable of making furnace walls a quarter brick thick, and therefore the device is able to heat up quickly enough.
The heating and cooking stove is a two-tier hood. The lower tier warms up more, which allows you to heat the cold air at the bottom of the room.
Masonry of this design is not at all difficult. The advantage is that if the smoke damper on the chimney is not tightly closed, the stove in its upper half will not be cooled from the cold air entering the firebox. Air that enters the firebox through the slots in the ash pan and fuel door will rise through the haylo. However, due to the fact that it is heavier than the hot gases of the hood, it will immediately overflow into the side channels and go into the chimney. In this regard, the entire part under the high (completely the entire hood) will not undergo cooling.
The disadvantage of this design will be the predominant heating of the upper part. In order to reduce it, it is necessary to arrange boreholes in the 5th row of masonry in the walls of the firebox. The stove will function well on anthracite and lean coals. If the structure is heated with firewood (in particular, damp), the gaps between the buttresses will overgrow with soot.
It is quite difficult to clean the soot, because the cleaning doors are located in the 8th row and do not allow you to get completely into all the gaps of the buttresses. The smoke will be diverted to the root pipe.
Channelless designs based on the principle of free gas movement are square or rectangular. They can be performed in a metal case or without it. In the latter case, it will be necessary to thicken the walls of the hood to 1/2 brick.
Masonry of the furnace of the heat engineering institute of construction, engineer Kovalevsky
1. Heat lifting channel.
2. Drop channels.
3. The last ascending channel, which turns into the chimney.
4. Smoke damper.
5. Window in the side walls of the fire channel.
6. Cleaning.
The design is shown in the figure. Its size will be 100x85x217 cm. The firebox here is of a mine type. It is intended for burning hard coal.
Flue gases rise through the channel under the overlap, after which they enter 2 side channels. Then they go down to the very bottom, and after that they will be fed through the collecting channel to the smoke stack. When the smoke valve is open, they will escape into the atmosphere.
The peculiarity of this scheme is the different thickness of the walls of the smoke circulation. The first of them, which comes from the firebox, called the fire channel, will have an outer wall 3/4 brick thick. The rest of the walls will be half a brick thick.
This design does not have an iron casing. Its laying is quite simple. The efficiency is 75-80%. The disadvantage of this design is the possibility of overheating the upper part, into which the hottest gases are directed. They will reach the bottom of the oven completely cooled, therefore, the heating of the bottom part lags behind.
From the firebox through the screws, some of the hot gases will enter the tank channels. To some extent, this will increase the heating of the outer walls of the lower part. In order to clear smoke from soot, cleaners should be used.
The grate can be extended. In this way, it is able to facilitate the process of caring for the furnace of lowering the slag into an ash pan or a steel box, which is located under grate... The smoke will be discharged into a nozzle pipe.
Today these stoves are being built by many people during the construction of a summer house or a country house. The struggle to save fuel has led to new designs.Today there are a large number of different types, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages, its own device features. The choice is yours.
