- Preparing to install the fence
- Tools and materials
- Installation process
- Chain-link fence
- Wooden fence
- Fence made of corrugated board
- Concrete or brick fence
On any land plot there is a border, and it is customary to put a fence along it, which not only serves as a protective fence, but is also a design element and creates the first impression of the site and its owner. At first glance, the task of installing a fence may seem simple and obvious, but in the process you have to solve various issues. Therefore, when you decide to put up a fence, you should take into account many nuances.
: Rabitz, wooden picket fence, wooden wattle, corrugated fence, brick, concrete.
This is the appearance of the fence, the cost and type of materials, relationships with neighbors and compliance with legislation, the possibility of self-installation or with the help of specialists.
The construction of fences always begins with careful preparation.
Preparing to install the fence
It is recommended to start preparation with communication with neighbors in order to avoid any disputes or even litigation in the future. Experience shows that this issue cannot be ignored, therefore, it is better to immediately ensure peaceful coexistence of neighbors. For plots of summer cottages and horticultural associations, there are some restrictions, namely: the fence must be mesh or lattice to avoid shading, and its height should be no more than 1.5 meters. However, this rule does not require the demolition of the fence. To do this, you need a court decision, and in order to get it, a neighbor must prove that your fence shades part of his site or threatens safety, for this a special examination is carried out. another type, other than the above, is allowed by mutual written consent of the neighbors, which is agreed with the board of the horticultural association.
When building urban and rural settlements, there are no standards regarding how thick and high the fence should be, but in this case, talking with neighbors will not hurt. If you have a long-standing good relationship with the owner of a neighboring plot, but you decide that the fence is still necessary, you can build it together, dividing all costs in half.
Now that the neighborhood issue has been resolved, having estimated the cost of materials, choose the type of fence that suits you.
- The simplest and most inexpensive option is a fence using a chain-link mesh, it is installed on the site easily and quickly and meets all the conditions of gardening and summer cottages. It is comfortable, durable and practical material, replacing a damaged section of the mesh is not difficult and will take a minimum of time. Full transmission of sunlight helps to improve the yield, therefore, for gardeners, the Rabitz mesh is the best option.
- A classic wooden fence is also inexpensive and widely available. Eco-friendly material and simplicity of construction make it popular. Although wooden structures are susceptible to environmental influences, their durability and functionality are now effectively increased by special processing and impregnation of wood.
- A fence made of corrugated board has the best combination of price and quality. This fence is easy to install and durable, it will protect your site from prying eyes and street noise, it is installed quickly and has a beautiful modern appearance.
- Typesetting concrete fence consists of concrete blocks and pillars between them, is also quite good optimal solution, has a variety of designs, is durable and reliable.
- A brick fence can be built in any size and color; it has a very beautiful and respectable appearance, especially in combination with wrought iron inserts. Provides reliable protection from unwanted guests and noise. And although its construction will cost a lot, there are many who want to install such a fence.
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Tools and materials
If you decide to set up the fence yourself, you will need a specific list of tools and materials. It can be adjusted depending on the type of fence that you decide to install:
- shovel;
- roulette;
- building level;
- pegs and cord;
- sledgehammer;
- welding machine;
- bulgarian;
- hacksaw;
- pliers;
- hammer and nails;
- screwdriver and self-tapping screws;
- cement, sand, crushed stone;
- direct material of a certain type of fence to be installed (chain-link mesh, corrugated sheets, wooden slats, concrete slabs or bricks).
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Installation process
Before describing how to put it, you need to decide when to put it: before the start of building a house (if it is not already there) or after its completion. Although opinions are divided here, most still favor putting up the fence right away. In this case, a passage yard will not be formed on your site, all materials for construction will be intact.
So, everything is ready to get started - let's get started. To install any fence, you must start with marking. On the site, pegs are hammered in its corners and a cord is pulled along the perimeter, defining the lines along which the fence will soon be installed. Next, we will consider the process for each type of fence, since each option has its own nuances.
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Chain-link fence
- After marking, at a distance of no more than 2.5 meters from each other, metal posts with welded hooks are installed, on which the mesh will be held. If the distance between the supports is greater than this, the mesh may sag over time. To install each support, a hole 0.5 meters deep is dug or drilled, a pillar is placed in it, the vertical is controlled with the help of a level, and the pillar is driven into another 0.5 meters with a sledgehammer. Crushed stone is poured into the pit and carefully rammed.
- After installing all the supports around the perimeter, unfold the roll of the Rabitz mesh and, pulling it, hang it on the hooks of the supports. At the junction with the next unrolled roll, leave the mesh loose.
- Unscrew one spiral from the mesh, with its help 2 rolls of mesh are woven by screwing this spiral back in. The result is a seamless canvas.
- Finally, pull the mesh and secure it by bending the hooks.
- If your mesh is galvanized, then the process can be considered complete. If you have purchased a cheaper non-galvanized mesh, then to increase its service life you need to protect it from rusting. To do this, it is covered with black paint, bituminous varnish or used engine oil.
To give your fence a more confident look and to prevent digging by animals, after installing all the supports, before hanging the net, you can install a plinth around the perimeter. It is done in the standard way: formwork is placed and poured with cement mortar from 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand and 2 parts of crushed stone with the addition of water.
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Wooden fence
- According to the markings for the support pillars, pits are prepared with a depth of at least 0.5 m at a distance of two meters from each other.
- To increase the service life of the support, before installing it, treat it with a special wood preservative, and the part of each post that will be buried must be dipped in hot bitumen.
- Then you lower each pillar into the prepared hole and, controlling its vertical position, cover it with rubble and ram it. It is not recommended to pour concrete into wooden supports.
- Horizontal beams or planks, called veins, are attached to the supports with nails or screws. To increase the strength of the structure, the nails need to be chosen so long that they go right through, and then bend the protruding parts.
- Optimal height wooden fence - from 1.5 to 2.5 meters. Boards of the required length can be cut and sanded by yourself, or you can buy a ready-made kit. We nail or fasten the boards to the veins, placing them vertically, at a small equal distance from each other or close to each other.
- After assembly, treat the entire structure with an antiseptic, primer, varnish or drying oil, then paint it with good paint.
A fence made of profiled iron has become, in many cases, a non-alternative method of installing opaque fences of private areas and areas. It is easy to install, economical, and can be installed on your own. The review is devoted to one problematic issue, how to make a fence from a professional sheet with your own hands on an uneven area.
The choice of corrugated board is quite objective, since at a fairly low price, quick installation, the corrugated board provides the necessary mechanical reliability to the fence and excellent aesthetic qualities. The fence is available in a variety of colors, which can be selected from the RAL catalog.
Site marking and fence plan on an uneven area
Usually, installing a fence begins with planning a rigid base - posts that will hold the sheets of iron. The posts are installed at an equal distance from each other. The most common fence height is 2 meters, the posts are selected 3 meters high, the spans between the posts are usually made along the length of the profiled sheet - 2.5 meters. For reliability, a metal post with dimensions of 60 * 60 mm is used, as well as transverse lags of 40 * 20 mm.
A do-it-yourself fence made of corrugated board on an uneven area is recommended to be made on a "ladder" type foundation, in which metal posts are firmly fixed - two for each span. The span length is also preserved - 2.5 m, but subject to the average slope of the site - up to 30-35 degrees. With a greater slope, the spans are made shorter in order to reduce the step of the drop.
Fence foundation
On a slope, a metal profile fence is made in such a way that the indents downward along each span are the same. To this end, you need to correctly calculate the height of the foundation on each span. Provided that the slope of the site is more than 30 degrees or has an uneven slope, "landscape steps" with flat planes can be made on the site, which are also reinforced with a foundation. In this case, the design of the span length is carried out in conjunction with landscape planning.
The height of the foundation must be maintained in such a way that the descending ladder of the upper indentations is uniform, this is necessary to preserve the aesthetics of the fence. Adjacent posts are installed close to each other. In some cases, a varying length of spans is allowed, the requirements are dictated by expediency and personal preferences. It is recommended to drill holes for pillars to the depth of soil freezing, i.e. 1-1.5 m.
We carry out fasteners
A do-it-yourself fence made of a profiled sheet on an uneven area is attached to the finished base in the same way as a fence made in one line. Since the profiled sheet is used for roofing, it should be borne in mind that sheets with a wave depth of up to 20 mm are used for fences. This is quite enough to maintain high mechanical rigidity of the fence.
When attaching a metal profile, you need to be as careful as possible, since scratches not only make the fence unaesthetic, but also cause corrosion. For fasteners used roofing screws with rubber gaskets in the color of the profiled sheet. The self-tapping screw is installed in one step, that is, no hole drilling is required. When using rivets, pre-drilling is required. Installation with rivets is often used in suburban areas to avoid theft of the fence, as well as with external fences for the same reason.
Installation of sheets is carried out, if necessary, with an overlap "wave in wave", respectively, this method of installation requires an increase in sheet consumption. A distance of 10-15 cm is left from the ground or foundation for good ventilation of the site.
After installing the protective plugs on the posts and end plates a fence made of profiled sheet with your own hands on a site with a slope can be considered complete.
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In practice, absolutely flat areas of soil are rarely found. Many landowners different ways trying to level the surface of their sites. But this is possible only if the plot is small - for example, intended for a vegetable garden or this is the notorious six acres of summer cottages. If the land plot occupies a significant area, then you will have to adapt to its relief. This applies to almost everything - from growing gardens to building a house.
Fence on an uneven area
Before erecting a fence on a site with a difficult terrain, you should carefully consider all possible options for installing the fence. Not only a presentable appearance, but also reliability - those components that any fence should have.
Sometimes, according to an unspoken agreement between designers and builders, the fenced surface is considered perfectly flat. The planning of the fence is based on this agreement. But at first glance, imperceptible surface irregularities, amounting to 10-20 cm and hidden by grass, can affect the performance of work when digging trenches. In this situation, it will be necessary to increase the depth of the trench under the foundation, which entails an increase in costs:
- directly on digging,
- backfilling of sand,
- pouring concrete.
To avoid unnecessary spending, marking the site for the fence should begin with a geodetic survey of the area. 
On uneven terrain, however, almost any fence can be built, either with a foundation or on a foundationless basis.
To understand how unevenness in the terrain can affect the behavior of the foundation and the technical aspect of the work, you need to have a good understanding of the structure of the height of the foundation being erected and the behavior of the basement as a whole. When designing a fence, the following should be taken into account:
- the depth of the foundation,
- height of the fence,
- the height of the blind area supplied to the plinth,
- distance from the blind area to the upper edge of the base.
A blind area near the fence is arranged in order to divert flood or storm water from the foundation of the structure. For this purpose, the blind area should have a slope to the side of the fence at 5 °.
Digging trenches to fill the foundation on a gentle slope always starts from the highest point of the terrain. Only in this case it is possible to fill in an even foundation. If the site has a strong elevation difference, then digging a trench begins from the lowest point.
On very rough terrain, the foundation for the fence should be led by a ladder. In this case, there should not be a single excavation for pouring the foundation, as an integral structure. In this case, the uniform aesthetics of the fence can only be preserved due to the uniformity of the height and width of the steps.
Significant reduction in the cost of construction
In order not to spend significant funds on the construction of a stone fence, or a brick fence, sectional structures made of profiled iron can be vented on uneven areas.
Fence marking in this case, it should begin with planning and marking the perimeter for the installation of supports. Supports are usually installed at an equal distance from each other. Despite the fact that the difference in terrain height can be significant, this will not have a significant effect on the installation of supports.
Standard for sectional fences or fences made of solid profiled sheet is a height of 2 m. For uneven surfaces, choose metal supports with a diameter of 6 cm and a length of 3 meters. With a strong slope of the site, the standard support step of 2.5 m is reduced to 1.5 or 1 meter. This is done in order to reduce the step of the drop. On very rough terrain, it can be difficult to install a sectional foundationless fence precisely because of the reduction in the span. Therefore, in such areas, the fence is always installed either on the foundation, or the sheet or mesh is pulled in.
On a steep slope, a professional sheet fence is led by a ladder. That is, the sheet is not fully attached. It is cut in such a way as to close the surface area as tightly as possible. If the site has a steep uniform slope of more than 30 °, or an uneven steep slope, then it will be necessary to bring landscape steps under any fence. This is a change in the slope surface with the calculation of the maximum increase in the horizontal soil surface. The planning of the erection of a fence on such slopes should be carried out simultaneously with the landscape planning.
When installing supports for fastening the sheet with a "ladder", each step must be equipped with two supports. In this case, the extreme supports are mounted almost close to each other. The fastening of the sheet should be done with a minimum overlap.
Fastening the sheet
You can close the spans between the erected supports not only with a profiled sheet. For these purposes, the sections are suitable:
- assembled from wooden elements,
- from a chain-link mesh,
- from die cut,
- decorative panels.
In principle, with the correct installation of the supports, on a properly planned area, securing the sections should not cause problems. But it is not always possible to arrange completely even landscape steps and to put supports at equal distances. Therefore, the spans between supports on uneven sections:
- cover with a sheet
- brick
- or a stone.
The sheet is attached wave to wave. This method will require additional material consumption. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase a sheet in morethan the calculations show by about 10%. Sections, sheets or spans should be fastened by leaving ventilation openings near the ground. No material should fit tightly to the soil. Brick fences you can't lay out dully. There should be ventilation openings near the ground.
Supports from a metal pipe should be closed on top with plugs. This will prevent the metal from rusting due to the accumulation of rainwater in the tube and from the accumulation of dirt and debris in the tube.
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- Materials for fences
- Brick, art forging, wooden fences
- Concrete fences on the site
- Green hedges
- How to make a chain-link fence
- Work order
A fence is a reliable tool that allows you not only to delimit a site, but also to prevent unauthorized entry into it. Modern construction technologies allow different types and from different materials, they all differ in appearance and functionality. How to do it right with your own hands?
Materials for fences
Modern and very durable, reliable, attractive fencing - this is all about corrugated fences. Nowadays, a fence is required to be functional, reliable, resistant to many types of influences, attractive. It is the corrugated board that meets all these requirements, and its advantages include the low cost and ease of installation, which everyone can handle.
Such fences can be solid, sectional, usually used as support pillars metal pipes or brick. For installation under the supports, a concrete pad is required, in some cases, when the height of the fence is significant, a strip foundation is arranged.
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Brick, art forging, wooden fences
Types of fences: mesh-netting, wooden, wattle, corrugated board, brick, concrete.
Brick - universal construction material, which, like decking, is used almost everywhere these days. not that hard. The main thing is to decide on whether the fence will be solid or not, which masonry option is used.
Brick fences can be built from many types of material, although silicate white brick is not recommended, as it absorbs moisture too much, but red ceramic is perfect for this purpose. During the construction, a foundation is required, since the weight of the future fence will be significant. Often it is a strip foundation made of concrete, which perfectly withstands all loads.
Such fences are distinguished by their stylish appearance, but the cost of metal forging is quite high. Today, fences that are entirely made of forged elements are rarely used. Most often these are combinations of brick parts and individual forged sections. Making such a fence with your own hands is quite problematic, especially if you absolutely do not know how to work with metal, therefore, sections and their installation are often ordered from specialists.
It is also possible from such a traditional and relatively inexpensive material as wood. Fences of such a plan can be easily assembled with your own hands, they can be either the simplest in the form of a picket fence, or beautiful and stylish with carved elements of wooden lace.
Various materials can be used to make a fence:
- wooden beams and slats for a picket fence (pickets can go horizontally or vertically);
- you can also make a fence from wooden panels, while obtaining a solid, durable and reliable fence for the site;
- often combined are used, i.e. metal pipes, bricks, natural stone are used as support pillars.
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Concrete fences on the site
To make a reliable fence, special concrete slabs are often used. The technology for their installation is simple: special reinforced concrete slabs of a certain size are brought to the site. On the ground, markings are made, along which the base elements are placed in the form of pyramidal blocks, that is, glasses. A metal support post is inserted into the hole of this glass, into the grooves of which the plates are mounted.
A feature of such a fence is that they can be made without a foundation, and the base itself is not even attached to the soil, it is enough just to perform sand bed... The weight of the structure is so large that it is simply impossible to move it; this requires the efforts of a bulldozer.
Of the advantages, the following should be noted:
- you can make such a fence quickly, usually it takes only 2-3 days;
- structural strength is high, as is reliability.
But there are also disadvantages:
- heavy construction equipment is required to transport and install the base and slabs;
- the appearance of such a fence is not very attractive.
It is in order to neutralize the last drawback that experts often recommend using fiber concrete for the part that is directed to the street. Its characteristics are not much worse, but the appearance can be not only attractive, but even exquisite, thanks to the methods of artistic casting.
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Green hedges
Green hedges are the most attractive option. Such a fence represents plants that are planted according to a certain pattern, while not only marking the boundaries of the site, but also creating a reliable, beautiful fence that does not allow to get inside. The appearance of such plant fences can be very different, it all depends on what goals need to be achieved.
The simplest option is low, dense bushes, which are given the necessary shape with the help of garden shears.
But there are also more complex ones, for example, willow fences, the height of which can be more than three meters. Such a hedge is made of wicker, it is simply impossible to penetrate through it, since the trunks and branches of trees are very tightly intertwined with each other.
You can also build such fences on the basis of a frame; plants will simply decorate the entire surface of the structure. Most often, the frame is made of metal rods that are welded together. This is the simplest option, but you can also use metal mesh, wood, brick and much more.
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How to make a chain-link fence
Fences made of mesh netting are quite common. They differ not only in reliability and durability, but also in relative cheapness. Such constructions are placed between separate summer cottages, for fencing small areas, land plots. Of the advantages, it should be noted that making such a fence is simple, the materials for it are not very expensive, and working with them is very simple.
To make a mesh structure, you need to prepare the following materials:
Types of netting of the chain-link: steel without additional coating, galvanized wicker, with polymer or plastic coating.
- Metal shaped pipes, which are used for the construction of support posts, transverse lags. Pipes with the following characteristics should be taken: for posts - 60 * 40 * 2 mm with a length of 3, 2.5, 2 m (you can also use pipes with dimensions of 40 * 40 * 2 mm, but the length of each can be only 2 , 5-2 m), pipes 40 * 20 * 2 mm with a length of 3 m are taken as a lag.
- For support pillars are used plastic plugs with a section of 40 * 40 mm or 40 * 60 mm: it all depends on what kind of profile pipes are used.
- Bolts or screws M6 (20 and 30 mm).
- Special threaded rivets for use with M6 threads.
- Any fence mesh can be used, but it is best to take with polymer coating or cheaper galvanized. Such a grid no longer needs protective layer paint as a product made of ferrous metal. The sizes of the cells can be different, ranging from 30 * 30 * 2 and ending with 55 * 55 * 2 mm. The wire diameter for such fences is 2 to 3 mm. It is quite simple to calculate the amount of mesh: it is necessary to take into account the length of the canvas (the perimeter is calculated minus the length that will fall on the gate and wicket), and the length of one roll, the footage of which may be different. The recommended fence height is from 1.5 to 3 m.
The set of tools you need is the following:
- motor drill;
- welding machine;
- shovel or sledgehammer;
- rope for marking;
- building level;
- pliers and scissors for metal.
Plots come in different shapes and sizes: small and large, square and rectangular, or generally with a polygon at the base. On some of them, you can build a house and live in peace (IZHS), while on others, it is imperative to work, as, for example, in the case of agricultural land. Some of them cost "sky-high" money, and some are given almost for nothing. On some of them you can safely break a football field, and on some due to the large bias to arrange the only attraction "extreme slide".
All of the above parameters are taken into account when buying land. But still, the fundamental one (apart from the purpose of the land) is bias. Since too large a difference in elevation within one site can be a blessing for some, since the price in this case is lower compared to a similar site, but with a smaller slope. For others, this fact may become the main obstacle to the acquisition of a land plot. After all, they have no desire to engage in leveling the surface or erect various structures adjusted for the slope.
What are these structures? First of all, these include a residential building and a fence due to their often not small size in terms of plan. Therefore, if you are suddenly lucky enough to acquire a plot with a significant bias, then it is possible four further courses of action:
- level the surface;
- bring the foundation to one level;
- leave everything unchanged;
- make step transitions.
Moreover, in relation to residential buildings, most often this list is limited to only the first two points, since few people want their residential building to be inclined to the horizon, or so that when passing between rooms within one floor, you have to use a staircase. But for the fence, all these four points are relevant. Therefore, further we will talk only about him. Moreover, the article is devoted to the fact how to put a fence on an uneven area.
Option 1. Surface leveling
The first decision that comes to mind when building on a site with a slope is to carry out work to level it. That is, with the help of various manipulations with the soil, shovels and often heavy equipment, make one mark on the site.
In its turn there are three ways of such manipulations:
1. Cut all soil to the lowest mark.
This method consists in the fact that all the soil that is above the lowest mark on the site is cut and taken out somewhere else.
The big advantage of such surface leveling is the absence of work on soil compaction, if a strip foundation is assumed for the fence. And the disadvantage is the bare ground along the boundaries of the site, which needs to be closed somehow. In addition, in this case, it is advisable to make a drainage system in a place where the highest point used to be. Otherwise, small waterfalls are only the smallest nuisance that can happen during a downpour or melting snow.
There are no special requirements for such a layout of the site. That is, you can make a fence with pillars simply buried in the ground to a depth of 500 mm, or you can erect a reinforced concrete strip foundation with a depth of at least 300 mm along the perimeter of the site. Moreover, the latter option is preferable. Since such a foundation will not only serve as a reliable basis for the overlying structures of the fence, but also act as a retaining wall, which will both prevent the soil from collapsing at the cut point and hide it. True, you must immediately say that it will not cost cheap.
2. Add soil to the highest mark.
A large amount of soil may be required here, since this method implies alignment to the highest elevation of the land plot. Moreover, for this, it is advisable to use not any kind of soil, but sand of medium size, which during the work is subjected to compaction (by ramming, spilling water) every 20 cm.Without compaction, all structures on the site, including the fence, will sag.
The advantage of such soil filling is the elevation of the entire site above the adjacent territory. In other words, having built a house in the place where the lowest point of the site used to be, on the 1st floor of this house it will seem like the 2nd floor. True, it all depends on how much sand was added. The disadvantages here include the fact that in the overwhelming majority of cases it will be necessary to make a retaining wall already for bulk soil. Moreover, its dimensions at comparable heights are often larger than in the previous case. Adding this fact to the fact that additional soil will have to be obtained somewhere and, most likely, for money, we can conclude that this method of leveling the surface is more expensive than cutting the soil at the lowest mark.
As for the fence, it is usually placed on the retaining wall. That is, here either pillars are laid in the structure of the pick-up wall before concrete is poured, and after the concrete is cured, for example, corrugated board is attached to them. Or after installing such a wall, it is laid out on it brickwork fence.
Erection of a fence with such a ground plan without a retaining wall ( strip foundation) is possible only in the case of a slight slope of the site and only if the pillars are buried into the bedrock by 500 mm or more. Otherwise, the fence can slightly change its orientation in space.
3. Bring the ground to the middle mark.
Bringing the ground elevation to the mean is the "sweet spot" between the two previous methods. After all, here the retaining walls are 2 times smaller and the soil (sand) does not need to be brought in. And, consequently, money, time and effort are saved.
The design of the fence with such a layout of the land directly depends on how much earlier the site was uneven. That is, if the slope was small, then it is possible to simply install the pillars along the perimeter of the site with deepening into the bedrock to a depth of at least 500 mm and filling the space between them with boards, profiled sheets or other materials. In the event that the height difference within one section was large, the installation of retaining walls cannot be avoided.
The fence posts or strip foundation under it can also be supported on bulk soil, but, however, it is advisable to worry about complementary measures strengthening these structures. For example, the pillars are not easy to dig or drive into the ground, but to make a concrete cushion at their base (put a pillar in the dug hole, pour concrete to a height of at least 20 cm, wait until it hardens), followed by backfilling the remaining space with soil. In the case of a strip foundation, you can increase its base by installing a reinforced concrete cushion, or you can make the section trapezoidal. This and bearing capacity will increase and protect the fence from overturning.
Option 2. Removing the foundation by one level
This option is possible only in the case of a strip foundation under the fence. It involves the construction of a fence on an uneven area by bringing the foundation to the same height. In other words, the bottom elevation changes in proportion to the slope of the ground, sinking into it by one value, for example, 500 mm. But the top mark remains unchanged. For example, the foundation strip at the highest point of the site was raised 300 mm. The elevation of 0.000 m is taken as the elevation of the earth at this point. This means that the upper elevation of the foundation is +0.300 m. This mark remains throughout the entire length of the fence.
The main disadvantages of this method of erecting a fence are its high cost and laboriousness, as well as some inconveniences that may arise during the installation process. Moreover, the degree of disadvantages directly depends on the level of the slope - the greater the slope, the more work on the foundation, as it becomes higher, and the more it becomes necessary to use scaffolds or ladders during the installation of posts and filler between them. Indeed, with a significant height of the entire fence from the ground, this will be problematic. Therefore, this option for getting out of the situation is more suitable for areas with a slight slope - the height difference between the extreme points of the area is 300-500 mm.
If we talk about the merits, then they primarily include no need to calculate the distance between stepsand calculating the amount of filler (profiled sheet, picket fence, etc.), taking into account the unevenness of the land plot, i.e. this material is bought in the same way as for a flat area. In addition, in the case of a slope of no more than 5%, the aesthetics of the structure can also be attributed here.
Option 3. Leave everything unchanged
Some people find it pointless to waste their time, effort and money on leveling the entire site or bringing the foundation under one mark. Indeed, in their opinion, it is much easier and cheaper to put a fence at an angle, without changing anything. But is it really so?
Cheaper is most likely true! Since there is no need to order a service for leveling the surface of your land plot and "well" spend money on building materials necessary for the construction of a bulky strip foundation. Wherein the number of posts and materials for filling the fence will not increase much - maximum 40% at an angle of inclination of 45º (100 cm per 1 meter or 100%). But this, as is already clear, is very rare, because in this case we are talking about a slope.
The amount of time and effort spent is another matter. Indeed, in this case, at least on 2 sides of the fence structure, you will have to lead at a slope. This means that all or almost all elements of the fence will have a slope (the foundation and bearing beams will definitely be inclined), which in turn will complicate the use of some common materials and structures, for example, profiled sheet and monolithic strip foundation. A brick fence under such conditions is generally rarely erected.
The most suitable option under these conditions is a fence made of pillars located perpendicular to the ground or the horizon, which are immersed at the same depth into the ground (with or without a concrete pad), and an aggregate, the role of which is picket fence or mesh netting.
Option 4. Make step transitions
Step transitions are the most common option in the case of a fence on an uneven area. Especially when it comes to areas with a significant slope.
Such popularity is connected with a number of indisputable advantages. Firstly, there is no need to lead the structure at an angle, and this has a positive effect on labor intensity. Secondly, the same amount or slightly more materials are consumed than if the site was flat, which in turn saves money. Thirdly, there are practically no restrictions on the choice of the materials and structures themselves - you can install from wooden poles with a picket fence to a reinforced concrete tape with prefabricated reinforced concrete panels or brickwork.
As for the shortcomings, they include modest aesthetic qualities (although this is a matter of taste) and little visual protection, since from some angles, at least the floor of the site will be visible. True, in fairness it should be noted that the degree of visibility depends on the height of the fence and the percentage of the slope - the less it is, the more likely the area behind the fence is reliably protected from "accidental eyes."
Installation of a fence with stepped transitions is as follows. To begin with, the slope is calculated. For this purpose, you must use the level. By the way, this device will not hurt in the previous three cases. Next, it is determined through what distance and what size the steps will be (it is desirable that they be the same). It all depends on type of foundation, length of section and maximum gap sizethat you can afford. And only after that the required amount of building materials is calculated and the fence is erected.
Example of calculating fence steps
It is necessary to determine the length and height of the height difference (steps) of the fence on the site with a slope of 2% (2 cm per 1 running meter).
- The length of the section towards the slope is 30 m.
- The pitch of the posts is 2000 mm.
- The filler is corrugated board with a working width of 1000 mm.
- Maximum allowable distance from corrugated board to the ground - 150 mm.
Payment
Determination of the maximum height difference (from the highest point of the site to the lowest):
H \u003d 30,000 20/1000 \u003d 600 mm.
Determination of the maximum step length depending on the limit of 150 mm:
L1 \u003d 30000 150/600 \u003d 7500 mm.
Conclusion: this length does not suit us, since we need a multiple of 1 meta, so as not to cut the sheets of corrugated board. We cannot take more due to the fact that the maximum permissible clearance of 150 mm will be exceeded. But as for the smaller values, they need to be selected.
Determination of the number of steps:
Here it is necessary to choose such a length of the step so that by dividing the length of the entire section by it, an integer is obtained, and so that when dividing the length of the step itself by the width of the corrugated board, an integer is obtained.
N1.1 \u003d 30000/7500 \u003d 4 pcs; N1.2 \u003d 7500/1000 \u003d 7.5 pieces - the condition is not met;
N1.1 \u003d 30000/7000 \u003d 4.3 pcs; N1.2 \u003d 7000/1000 \u003d 7 pcs - the condition is not met;
N1.1 \u003d 30000/6000 \u003d 5 pcs; N1.2 \u003d 6000/1000 \u003d 6 pcs - the condition is met.
Determination of the height of the steps:
Н1 \u003d 6000 20/1000 \u003d 120 mm.
Conclusion: the fence will be lowered by 120 mm every 6 meters 4 times.
