Wall insulation wooden house - an important stage in the construction of a country cottage. Insulation solves several problems at once: it provides thermal insulation and retains heat in the room for a long time, protects against noise and wind. In addition, it is convenient to lay the finishing of the facade on the insulation. Experts recommend insulating the walls of the house from the outside, since internal work reduces the space inside the building and does not provide full-fledged effective insulation.
In this article we will look at how to insulate wooden house outside is correct.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house from the outside includes three main stages. First of all, you need to calculate and select the material. This is followed by the laying of insulation and at the end - finishing facade. First, let's look at how to choose the right insulation for the outer walls of a wooden house.
What insulation to choose
Manufacturers today offer different kinds heaters. When choosing a material, pay attention not only to cost and ease of installation. A high-quality insulation should have low water permeability, high thermal insulation and vaporization, resistance to fires and rodents. It is desirable that it be natural material, which will not violate the environmental friendliness of wood. If you are insulating walls with your own hands, the insulation should be easy to use.
Most suitable material for insulation wooden walls mineral wool is considered. It guarantees high thermal insulation, allows air to pass through (ventilated) and allows the wood to “breathe”. Minvata is distinguished by its softness and elasticity, simple calculations and installation. Therefore, you can easily lay the material with your own hands. Mineral wool effectively fills gaps and voids. In addition, rodents cannot damage the product, and the low weight of the insulation will not create a load on the walls and foundation of the house.
The second most popular insulation for wooden walls is expanded polystyrene. It represents polystyrene in sheets. This is a good and effective insulation that will keep the room warm for a long time. It is characterized by light weight and easy installation, high sound insulation properties and long service life.
However, such material “does not breathe” and does not ventilate, which is bad for natural wood. As a result, the walls will gradually rot and mold. In addition, rodents can damage the foam, and in the event of a fire, the insulation will slowly smolder, which is very dangerous.
Experts recommend using mineral wool to insulate the walls of a house made of wood. Mineral wool is produced in layers or in rolls in plates. The material in the slabs is more convenient to use and during installation, which is important when doing work with your own hands.
Top best mineral wool manufacturers
Rockwool
Heaters of this Danish company absorb noise and vibrations, are distinguished by high thermal insulation, environmental friendliness and fire safety. Such material will last a long time without deformation and destruction. It will not crumble either during installation or during operation. Be careful, as counterfeits of products of this company are often found on the market!
Isover
The French company offers a wide range of mineral wool, which guarantees protection from cold and noise, increases the energy efficiency and comfort of a wooden house. The materials have several environmental quality certificates, which confirms the environmental friendliness and durability of the insulation. In the catalogs of the company you will find modern products with high strength and elasticity, without dust and "prickly".
Paroc
Minvata of the Finnish company is characterized by high thermal insulation, fire resistance, durability and environmental friendliness. The big advantage of this insulation is energy efficiency, because the material saves thermal energy. Minvata Paroc protects against noise and dust, but has a rather high price.
Knauf
These are Russian heaters with high vapor permeability, heat and sound insulation. The material is characterized by increased fire safety and environmental friendliness, strength and durability, resistance to mold and bacteria development. Knauf minvata is distinguished by easy installation with low dust formation and no strong odor.
Ursa
Mineral wool from natural and naturally renewable components. The material is distinguished by rigidity and strength, high heat and sound insulation, incombustibility and long service life. Experts recommend using the new generation PureOne boards, as they meet every quality and environmental requirement.
Ursa PureOne is 1.5 times more rigid and durable than other thermal insulators! The material does not prick, crumble or deform. However, it is not among the top three products, as it collects dust strongly and emits an unpleasant odor during installation. Therefore, during installation, be sure to use special protection!
Beltep
A good and inexpensive mineral insulation with a wide range of density models. The material is characterized by high vapor permeability, fire safety and environmental friendliness, resistance to deformation. Minvata Beltep will provide acoustic comfort for the room.
Izovol
Mineral wool with good sound and heat insulation properties, increased fire safety and environmental friendliness. Non-combustible material has an average density, suitable for wall insulation, pitched and mansard roofs. But keep in mind that the insulation crumbles lightly during installation and is difficult to cut.
TechnoNIKOL
The largest manufacturer that offers a wide range of insulation materials. The materials are distinguished by environmental friendliness and fire safety, high heat and sound insulation. But despite the popularity and availability of the material, he collected a lot of negative reviews. The mineral wool of this company is deformed and crumbles during installation. In addition, slabs of different structure and density are often found in packs. Some sheets are much thinner than the specified values.
Wall insulation technology
It is better to insulate a wooden house from the outside in the warm season. Before starting work, the surface of the walls is prepared for insulation. Preparation includes cleaning logs, sealing cracks and treating wood with protective agents. Antiseptics will protect wood materials from decay and mold, and fire retardants will not allow the fire to spread over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls in case of fire.
Two days after processing the wooden walls, they switch to the waterproofing layer. Aluminum foil, standard polyethylene or special porous insulating film are used as waterproofing. When laying the insulating film with your own hands, make sure that the porous surface lies inward "facing" the wall.
The waterproofing material is laid horizontally from the bottom with an overlap of 10-15 cm and gradually raised up. The film or foil is attached to the wall surface with staples using a construction stapler. The joints are carefully glued with construction tape.
A crate of bars or boards with a thickness equal to the thickness of the insulation is laid on the waterproofing layer. The standard insulation thickness is 50 mm. For a wooden wall 20 cm thick and winter temperatures up to minus 20, one layer of mineral wool is enough. In colder winters, you need to lay two to three layers. The distance between the bars or boards is made 3-5 centimeters less than the width of the insulation.
The next step is to lay the insulation. Minvata is easy to install with your own hands. If necessary, the slabs are trimmed. A hole is made through the cotton with an interval of 50 cm in the wall and the anchor is driven in, and the core is driven into the anchor. Wear a protective mask and goggles when working with mineral wool!
On the layer of insulation, waterproofing is again laid, which is fastened with brackets to the crate. Then a counter-lattice is made of bars or slats with a section of 50X50 mm. It is desirable that the wooden materials of the lathing and counter-battens be treated with antiseptics! This will increase the service life of the structure.
The final stage
At the end, the facade is finished. Block house, lining, siding and even brick are used as finishing materials. Experts recommend using natural materials such as wooden lining, block house or timber. This will preserve the aesthetics and harmony of the wooden house.
The above finishing materials are also easy to install with your own hands. During installation, it is important to fasten the products close to each other and not to leave gaps and crevices through which moisture or insects can get into the wooden walls.
Caulking and wall sealing
But what if you want to keep log house in its original form, and at the same time use the structure for permanent residence? Indeed, without insulation in such a cottage it will be cold. In this case, insulation and sealing of the seams are used.
After installing the log house, the walls are caulked, i.e. lay logs with insulation. Jute, moss or tow is used as a material. Installation begins with the lower crown, goes along the perimeter of the house and only then moves on to the next crown. First, insulation is done inside the house, and then outside.
Warming and finishing are performed only after the wooden house has shrunk!
To secure the result, the seams between the logs inside and outside the house are sealed. Experts recommend using acrylic sealants (“warm joint”). Such material is distinguished by environmental friendliness, durability, good heat and waterproofing. In addition, the sealant is easy to use and install.
In order to properly insulate wooden walls from the outside, you need to choose a high-quality insulation and follow the installation technology. External insulation will require serious financial and time investments, but as a result, you will receive annual savings on heating your home. In addition, living in such a room will be comfortable, and the service life of the structure and timber will increase.
If you do not know which insulation to choose, and how to install the insulation of wooden walls, contact the professionals! Masters of "MariSrub" will select and calculate the necessary heat-insulating materials, reliably and promptly perform work on the insulation and decoration of a wooden house, cottage or bath.
Wood is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular materials used in construction. Moreover, it is natural and environmentally friendly.
Recently construction wooden houses is becoming more widespread. A room made of such material turns out to be very warm, and the owners do not even try to insulate it, but in vain. In frosty winters, even a tree is not able to keep warm. Therefore, many people have a question: how to properly insulate a wooden house from the outside? You should understand this in more detail.
The better to insulate a wooden house outside
Wooden houses can be insulated from the outside or from the inside. According to most experts, it is external insulation gives the greatest effect, because:
- space inside the house is saved;
- this is a wonderful protection load-bearing walls from natural disasters;
- moisture on the walls will never accumulate, thereby preventing the appearance of condensation, and, accordingly, the tree will not rot and decay.
Insulating a house from the outside requires careful selection required material... It is best to use mineral wool and expanded polystyrene for these purposes.
Mineral wool
Most often, do-it-yourself insulation of a wooden house is carried out using mineral wool, which has the following qualities:
- providing excellent heat and sound insulation;
- this insulation provides a snug fit;
- additional fixation is not required for mineral wool;
- thanks to its softness and elasticity, the insulation can be easily installed.
Expanded polystyrene
It is an environmentally friendly material and has been used as a material for thermal insulation for a very long time. It is resistant to moisture and various microorganisms, and is also very durable. However, experts do not advise them to insulate a wooden house, since it has one serious drawback - high flammability and the ability to release ethylene, which is harmful to the human body.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house with mineral wool
To insulate a building, it is best to purchase mineral wool, which is most often used for these purposes. In hardware stores, you can buy mineral wool in the following variations:
- mats;
- plates;
- rolls.
It is best to use the material in the slabs for insulation, since rolls are very uncomfortable.
Calculation of the amount of material
First, the amount of material required for insulation is calculated. This requires knowing how thick the supporting structure is. It is also necessary to take into account the natural conditions. For example, in case of not too harsh winters, the walls of the house with a thickness of 20 cm should be insulated with one layer of mineral wool.
In addition to the material for insulation, you should purchase anchors, self-tapping screws and a special film for waterproofing. You will also need tools such as a plumb line, a building level, and a special stapler.
Surface preparation for insulation
Then they begin to prepare the surface, which requires insulation. Since it is wooden, it must be treated with special agents against the formation of fungus. Can use an emulsion or primer... In order for the selected antiseptic to dry thoroughly, it is left for a while. One more condition must be observed - the walls must not be wet. Correctly lay the insulation only on a dry surface. There should be no gaps between the boards. If they do arise, then the situation is corrected with the help of jute tow or polyurethane foam.
Vapor barrier and lathing installation
The next step is the implementation of vapor barrier. They begin to fasten the vapor barrier layer using plastic wrap, aluminum foil, as well as roofing material or vapor barrier. Such a layer is intended to ensure that the front of the house has ventilation. On a smooth surface, narrow slats begin to be vertically packed, which will subsequently be used to fasten the vapor barrier layer.
Between the slats from below and from above provide ventilation holes... They are necessary to prevent the formation of moisture, which can damage wooden walls. To prevent water from penetrating through the holes from the staples or nails, they should be sealed with tape.
They begin to install the crate. For this, a frame is installed, which will be used for mounting a layer of thermal insulation. The boards should be 40 mm thick and 100 mm wide. They are attached to the wall with the costal part. The distance between the bars directly depends on the thickness of the material for insulation. Be sure to use a building level, with the help of which the position of the boards is aligned relative to the vertical level.
Installation of thermal insulation material
Next, proceed to the installation of the material for insulation. It is laid between the battens of the sheathing. If necessary, the mineral wool is cut with an ordinary sharp knife. Installation is carried out in such a way as to completely eliminate gaps and crevices. A feature of mineral wool is its elasticity, which allows you not to use additional fasteners. After that, several holes are made in the insulation. at a distance of 50 cm from each other for fasteners and anchors.
Structural waterproofing and facade cladding
Then proceed to waterproofing the structure. For this, a special film is attached, capable of retaining moisture and not allowing air to pass through. Lay it with an overlap and fix it with ordinary nails or a construction stapler to the frame. For tightness, all joints and holes are sealed with construction tape. A strip should be attached to the waterproofing layer. As a result, air circulation is created between the outer skin and the vapor barrier. From below, the free space must be closed with a metal mesh so that various insects and rodents do not penetrate inside.
The final stage of house insulation is facade cladding with the necessary finishing material, eg, block house or siding... The process of installing the finishing coating is carried out according to the technology.
Thermal insulation of a wooden house with foam
For home insulation with their own hands, foam is also used. Before starting the installation of insulation, check the quality of the joints on the wall. After that, the boards are mounted, which will be needed for attaching the foam. For the tight entry of the sheets of insulation into the constructed frame, it is necessary to strictly observe the required distance of the boards from each other. To do this, add up the thickness of the board, and subtract 5 cm from the resulting amount.
The frame begins to be mounted in this way: the beams are nailed with the edge part to the middle of the previous ones. Then they start fix a layer of insulation, this process is best started at the bottom. Correct distance between the bars is the key to a good fastening of the material. Be sure to check for gaps at the joints. Attach on top to the previous layer diffusion membrane with a construction stapler, and the holes and joints are sealed with tape. Finally, the cladding of a wooden house is carried out.
Thus, insulating a wooden house from the outside with your own hands is a rather troublesome process, but if you do everything correctly and follow all the recommendations, then in the end the result will exceed all expectations. The main thing is to choose a suitable insulation, which must be heat-resistant, environmentally friendly and not subject to combustion.
It would seem that the question is quite simple - both the methods have been worked out for a long time, and the choice of thermal insulation products is significant. But it’s not about any building, but about a wooden house. There are a number of nuances regarding its insulation that cannot be neglected.
It's all about some of the features of such a building material as wood. First of all, it is its susceptibility to decay, the ability to "breathe" and retain heat well. The last two properties make it possible to maintain comfortable indoor conditions, as a rule, without significant additional costs. For example, for the purchase (and professional installation) of climatic equipment, due to the increased consumption of en / resources (including fuel for the boiler). At least, the indicated devices are not used as intensively in wooden houses as in buildings made of brick or aerated concrete. So, let's take a closer look at how and what is the best way to insulate a wooden house.
To make the technology of work clearer, it should be explained why external insulation for a wooden house is the only right solution. This method of reducing heat loss is the main one for any buildings, as it has a number of advantages. For example, it does not reduce the usable area. This is one of the disadvantages of arranging this protective layer from the inside. But for a log house something else is more relevant.
It's all about the so-called "dew point". External installation of the insulation takes it outside the perimeter of the house, and condensation forms in the ventilated space. Therefore, in cold weather, the tree does not freeze, and in warm weather, the decay process does not begin. If the insulation is laid on the walls of the premises, then the "point" shifts inward. As a result, the logs (timber) remain unprotected, and the condensate settles in the thermal insulation material, which initiates the development of mold and mildew not only in it, but also in the rooms.
How to insulate a wooden house
If you delve into the details, then the choice of materials is not that great.
Expanded polystyrene plates
They differ not only in the correct geometry, but also in "rigidity". Therefore, in order to fix them, the base must be carefully aligned. It is still acceptable for a timber, especially if the walls were erected by professionals. And what about the logs? In addition, polystyrene not only does not allow moisture to pass through, but also air. Therefore, the main attraction of a timber house - microclimate regulation - will be completely leveled.
Sprayable compounds
Typically polyurethane. There are even more disadvantages, in addition, you will need special equipment... But the firms providing this service (for PU insulation) are silent about another rather significant disadvantage - the low maintainability of the layer. After all, it sticks to the surface on which it is applied. If you literally "pick it off" from the brick or concrete goods still work out, then what about the tree? After all, it is quite malleable to mechanical stress, and damage to the logs or timber in this case cannot be avoided.
There are other types of insulation for wooden buildings, which the authors of some articles advise to use. But all the listed materials (chipboard, flax fiber and the like), taking into account the specifics of the log house and in terms of durability, hardly deserve attention.
Only mineral wool should be used to insulate wood buildings. Excellent vapor permeability, elasticity, low weight - in fact, such thermal insulation fully meets all the main criteria for a wooden house.
Warming the house outside - how to do it
Surface cleaning
This is where any repair begins or finishing work... For a wooden house, an initial inspection is especially important. It is necessary to identify all foci of damage to wood, to determine their nature, methods and means for eliminating defects. This is a separate topic, and.
Treatment with special / drugs
For a wooden house, both are equally relevant - fire retardants and antiseptics. Features of their use and recipe are indicated on the package. It is clear that it is advisable to do this when the weather is positive and the sky is clear.
All types of wood are porous. Although more often they talk about the hardness or density of lumber. Based on this, the appropriate formulations should be selected. Their list is quite large, and the specificity of their application can vary greatly. The best ones are those that penetrate deep enough into the structure of the material and at the same time do not "close" the pores. Otherwise, the tree will not be able to "breathe".
Installation of a vapor barrier layer
Its main purpose is to ensure the ability of wood to self-regulate the microclimate and at the same time to protect the material from direct contact with moisture. There are many types of films and membranes on sale. If the first option is chosen, then it is necessary to take into account that all samples differ in their performance, therefore, in the specifics of use. The film is cheaper, but the usual polyethylene modification cannot be used for vapor barrier. It is hermetically sealed and does not allow air to pass through with water. It is worth considering when choosing products.
Fastening on the outside of a wooden house is quite simple - using a construction stapler (staples). It is only necessary to take into account that the strips must be mounted with a small "overlap", and the joints must be closed with adhesive tape (tape).
Structural frame construction
It is also called a crate. What is its peculiarity in relation to a wooden house? You should consider the coefficients thermal expansion materials that are held together. Metal slats in installation are much more convenient, but since the house is made of wood, it is impractical to use them. Only wooden blocks of the appropriate length and section.
The dimensions of the seats (lathing cells), as well as its design, are selected based on the geometry and performance of the insulation. Mineral wool is sold in slabs or rolls, so it's easy to draw up a sample layout.
Another nuance concerns fasteners. Self-tapping screws or screws should not be used for the fixing elements of the battens. They "tightly" grab supporting structure, but it shouldn't be. A wooden house “plays” somewhat under the influence of external factors (a feature of the material), therefore, the lathing to it is fastened only with nails.
What to consider
The reliable position of the insulation is ensured by the fact that in the process of laying in place the samples are slightly compressed. Then, due to their elasticity, they straighten a little, which determines their reliable "coupling" with the rails of the supporting frame. When calculating its parameters, you need to choose the size of the cells so that they are slightly smaller than the thermal insulation products. Then you will not need any additional fastening on the outside of the house.
Laying insulation material
There is nothing complicated in this, especially if the scheme is drawn up correctly. Minvats are well cut with an ordinary knife, they bend, so no problems will arise.
Features:
- On problem areas of the walls (complex configuration, slope, etc.), it is worth additionally fixing the thermal insulation with special nails - anchor.
- The slots in the places where the insulation adjoins to the frame slats are sealed with the same construction tape.
- Installation of thermal insulation is carried out in the direction from bottom to top, in rows.
- In regions with frosty winters, the insulation (depending on the thickness of the samples) can be stacked in 2 layers. In this case, the slabs for the second are cut so that after installation their joints in the rows do not coincide. That is, a mount with a slight offset.
Calculator for calculating the amount of insulation
Using a regular polyethylene film will lead to the accumulation of moisture in the insulation. There is nothing to comment on here.
Counter grill
It is necessary to create a so-called ventilated space. In most cases, it alone is sufficient to ensure effective liquid removal due to the natural circulation of air currents.
The details of the counter-lattice are rigidly fixed on the rails of the supporting frame. Their elevation above the latter, as well as what exactly to use as these structural elements, depends on the material of the finishing of the wooden house. It can be both trimming bars and metal profiles. In this case, thermal expansion is not critical.
On a note!
- Insulating the walls of the house outside is only a partial solution to the problem of reducing heat loss. We must not forget about such parts of it as the basement and the foundation (if it rises above the ground). This is where expanded polystyrene comes in handy, and spraying can be done, given the small coverage area, with your own hands. There are special devices, and they are not that expensive. And although in practice they are disposable (despite the fact that manufacturers claim otherwise), taking into account an acceptable price, it is possible to implement such an option for insulation outside the lower part of a wooden house.
- When choosing a variety of mineral wool, it is advisable to focus on products of the "eco" category. From all points of view, for timber houses, this is the best option.
Warm home to you!
The timber, due to its affordable cost, durability and strength, has become a popular material in the construction of houses. Natural wood creates a healthy indoor climate and good vapor permeability. Low thermal conductivity is one of the advantages of timber, but insufficient wall thickness causes high heating costs.
Even with careful joining, gaps remain between the lumber, allowing cold and draft to pass into the room. You can change the situation by insulating a log house. The process of thermal insulation of a wooden building is distinguished by the availability of technology, so it is really possible to do it yourself.
Why is it preferable to place the insulation outside?
External thermal insulation log house has its advantages:
- reduced heating costs;
- protection of hygroscopic wooden walls from moisture;
- the appearance of the facade changes according to the individual preferences of the owners;
- the area of \u200b\u200bthe internal space does not decrease.
Criteria for the selection of thermal insulation material
When choosing a heater, you should pay attention to its characteristics: elasticity, resistance to combustion and moisture, thermal conductivity, air permeability. The thickness of the effective layer depends on the temperature in the region and the parameters of the bar. In temperate climates, 50 mm is sufficient thermal insulation material, and with winter frosts below -20 degrees, this figure doubles. The complexity of installation should also be taken into account, because the work is done by hand.
Insulation methods, what to choose for walls from a bar
Exterior decoration of a log house is carried out in three ways:
- Ventilated facade construction.
The hinged structure includes wooden lathing, insulation and external cladding made of lining, siding or porcelain stoneware. Do-it-yourself facade installation gives the walls additional heat and sound insulation and brings the dew point outward. The structure is easily assembled and lasts up to 50 years.
- Hermetically sealed with polyurethane foam.
Polymer spraying creates a monolithic seamless surface and strengthens the timber walls. The work is carried out using a high pressure washer. It mixes the two components and delivers the compound through a gun to the surface to be insulated. Condensation does not collect under the polymer layer, it does not burn, does not rot, and reduces the noise level. After spraying with polyurethane foam, finishing with a facade material is required. The main disadvantage of this method of insulation is the high price.
- Use of foam boards.
The low cost of the material makes it the most affordable insulation. It is resistant to fluctuations in temperature and humidity, but has a significant drawback - it supports combustion. Fixing the foam on the walls is done with a special glue. Before the installation of the first row, a starting profile is nailed to limit material slippage.
After analyzing the pros and cons of the ways in which you can insulate a log house from the outside, most owners stop at a ventilated facade.
Practical insulation for a wooden house
Mineral wool will be the best choice for home insulation. It is made from slag, rocks or glass and therefore does not support combustion. The material is easy to fit with your own hands, retains heat well and is affordable.
How to properly assemble a ventilated facade
Technology correct installation curtain facade includes several stages:
- fastening the lathing;
- laying insulation;
- installation of a diffuse membrane;
- fixation of decorative coating.
Work begins with the application of an antiseptic layer to the timber, which protects against decay and moisture. A frame made of wooden planks is stuffed onto the finished surface. The step of the vertical lathing is 1.5 cm less than the width of the insulation. This will allow the material to fit tightly, avoiding crevices and cold bridges.
The bars are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, their vertical plane is set using a level with a plumb line. Mineral wool mats are inserted between the frame slats, pressed tightly and fixed with umbrella dowels. When placing a wooden house in a region with a low temperature, it will be correct to perform external thermal insulation in two layers.
To protect the insulation from dampness, a special perforated film is laid. It does not allow water to penetrate inside, and releases moisture accumulated in the cotton wool outside. The membrane is laid with an overlap and is fastened with staples, its joints are glued with tape.
The ventilating layer of the façade is created by padding strips over the waterproofing. They provide a space between the insulation and the cladding in which air circulates. The second row of slats becomes the basis for the finishing facade coating. There are ventilation slots in the lower and upper parts of the structure. They are protected from precipitation by special visors.
Mineral wool is an excellent insulation material, but it loses its qualities when wet, so it should be stored indoors. When working with the material, dust and fibers are generated, which cause irritation. Laying mineral wool slabs must be in protective goggles and gloves.
It does not take much time and money to insulate a log house from the outside. The result of high-quality work will be a comfortable room temperature with lower heating costs.
The tree seems to be one of the most common building materials... In addition, it is a natural material and ecological. Today, the construction of wooden houses is again becoming widespread. The room turns out to be warm enough and many believe that it does not need to be insulated. They are mistaken, "thanks" to the harsh winters, even this material needs a "fur coat". Further, a solution to the issue is presented, namely, how the insulation of wooden houses from the outside is carried out.
Sometimes the question arises of what is better, to insulate from the outside or from the inside? Experts strongly recommend external insulation:
- This is saving the interior space of the house;
- Excellent protection of load-bearing walls from the vagaries of nature and atmospheric changes;
- Moisture will not accumulate on the walls. Thus, the appearance of condensation is prevented, and accordingly there will be no rotting of the tree and its destruction.
IMPORTANT: External insulation of a wooden house requires careful selection of appropriate materials.
The better to insulate a wooden house
Thermal insulation of wooden houses outside video instruction:
